G'Morning NEWMAR Gang:
Does anyone have instructions, suggestions and/or precautions to follow when pulling out full sized Maytag front loading washing machine from cabinet in our 08 Essex? This unit sits in a cabinet behind double (approx. 5 ft. ea.) louvered doors which I'll remove along with hardware and latch clips. Also plan to remove toilet compartment angled door & hinges located directly acoss from laundry cabinet to facilitate extraction of washer. Beyond that I don't know what I'm getting into behind the washer. Ofcouse I'll turn the water off and unplug the machine, but, for example, I don't know where the drain hose exits the washer and where it runs to after passing through a partion wall next to and forward of the washer. Refrigerator is on the other side of this wall. Does drain run directly to gray tank or to some other sink drain first...can't see it in basement beneath. Also, I plan to pad well the tile floor outside of this cabinet to avoid cracking tile. Washer sits in cabinet in a plastic/vinyl square tray with a minimal lip and so, do I leave the tray in the cabinet and try to lift washer out of this tray or use the tray to slide machine out or does this tray have a drain connection to worry about?? BOY!...sure wish Newmar provided better directions for us dummies!! Any ideas for lifting, sliding, tipping, etc. this heavy machine out of this pretty tight space? Thanks ahead of time for ANY tips you might be able to offer. THANK YOU. Steve & Lynette

I have never removed your Brand of washer. I have removed (twice) our Splendide combo W/D. For me, the following is true:
1. The tray has no drain. It is to hold minor water leaks/disasters.
2. The unit may be fastened to the tray/floor. This is only via the front feet.
3. The unit may need to be tipped top to the rear and slid forward to get the rear feet out of the grooves they are in to hold the unit in place during it's spin cycle.
4. Once free of the hold down groves/bolts the unit can be lifted out. If you tip the washer, water may pour out of the unit. For me this was about a gallon.
5. I have removed my unit by myself, but only after some creative leverage with two appropriately cut boards. My recommendation is get a friend to help.
5. My unit drains into the grey water plumbing and into the grey water tank.
6. There may be a "trap" door to allow you to get to the drain hose.
7. I remove the tray after the washer is out. This is only for cleaning.

This is a very challenging DYI job. I've seen the dealer do it and they always use two techs. Good luck.

quote:

Does anyone have instructions, suggestions and/or precautions to follow when pulling out full sized Maytag front loading washing machine from cabinet in our 08 Essex?

Hi! If you don't mind me asking, why are you doing this?? Paul

Hi: Well, had local authorized Maytag Svc. tech. here this a.m. and we simply lifted (to loosen) front of this washer to release it's front from a little adhesion with that drip tray. Then we tipped the machine forward to again release rear bottom edge from similar adhesion to tray. We could then slide the machine forward (leaving drip tray in position) as if to pull from cabinet, BUT, we didn't have to take it all the way out. Once we had enough clearence (ie., machine about 1/2 way out of cabinet, with all connections still attached), we tipped the top of the machine back into the cabinet on it's rear edge so tech could access a panel on the bottom surface of this machine by laying on floor and observing bottom of machine. Within this panel is located the drain pump which wasn't pumping out the water. Jetsmania, this was the problem. Tech said that when pump failed to evacuate water in the "spin" cycle, the machine sensed too much water and imbalance due to water, so machine shut down!! Anyway, after simply removing pump from bottom surface panel, removing in and out flow hoses being careful to catch a little water, and opening pump housing,..... there was the problem....a quarter lodged vertically in the inflow port AND, the main issue was a toothpick which was jammed in along side of impeller. We cleared debris, put pump back in, started machine....no growling heard...so replaced all, slid machine back into position, and ran cycle with water on. IT ALL WORKED WELL. Gary, thanks for the help.. It all sounds simple, HOWEVER, for those of us who don't really know how these rigs are designed and put together, it sure would be nice to be able to get detailed, over the phone, assistance from "the shop" (Nappanee) when we have to get into parts and systems we don't know about for sure. Many of us wouldn't mind working on our own rigs but, at least in my case, I scared to death I'm going to foul something else up while getting to root of the immediate problem. (Oh, I did call Newmar, but no one there really knew the rig details and were kinda VERY vague and general. Really no help at all. Oh well, ENOUGH. I'll have clean underwear for awhile anyway!!! Steve & Lynette

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there was the problem....a quarter lodged vertically in the inflow port

I think the important issue here is Who kept the Quarter?

Sorry… couldn’t resist.

I'm glad to see it ended on a good note for you and a bit saddened that Newmar wasn't more helpful.

I am a little perplexed by the Maytag engineers. You mean the drum/drain/pump is designed such that an intact toothpick AND a quarter can all make it all the way from the drum into the internal plumbing and lodge in the pump inlet? Talk about poor design! Yikees! Maybe a bored Maytag assembly line worker dropped those in there at the plant so the bored Maytag repairman would have something to do!

BTW - Who did keep the quarter?

We are having a problem with our Maytag washer. It seems all the water is not getting pumped out and creates a mildew smell. This started about four months ago. There is no visible water left in the machine after washing. I have pulled the washer to make sure there is no leaks. It seems contained in the washing machine. When we were at Newmar they looked at it and could find anything wrong and had not seen this problem before. They thought water was getting trapped in the door gasket, but that was not the problem. I think I will go back and check the pump and line for any restrictions. Thanks for the information.

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It seems all the water is not getting pumped out and creates a mildew smell.

This is a problem with many frontloaders, as the door forms a tight seal as opposed to top loaders and mildew forms.

The manufacturers recommend 2 things, leave the door open, and/or run the machine through a cycle with some Clorox added.

Not great options, IMHO.

Hi: Hey, ET & RVdude: We were so happy the machine could get fixed that we offered the quarter to the repair tech as a finder's fee (in addn. to $63.00 svc. fee), BUT, he left it with us to add to our park laundry quarter cash in the event we're unable to use our on-board washer....nice guy!! With regard to the "mildew smell", we have learned and believe that we MUST leave the front loading door ajar (using small towel draped over the door edge) when we're done using the machine. As long as we are parked, we keep the door ajar, but, if we get underway we then close this door until again parked somewhere. This practice has (so far) prevented that mildew odor and it's something we learned when we used to live in our house which had a front loading washer as well. Keeping that door ajar really seems to preclude mildew issue. Again, just to emphasize for the record, we sure wish the shop in Nappanee had a better system for us Newmar owners to access folks on the assembly line who really KNEW how are specific rigs and features were installed and who could give us good advice when we have to dig into components we're unsure about. Also, it sure would be a GREAT marketing feature for Newmar particularly in these tough market times where company survival is a concern. Oh well, at least we've got you guys to offer help. Thanks again. Steve & Lynette

Hi! Glad you were able to get it fixed! I never realized the mildew issue with a front loader. Good info. Not just an RV problem. Paul