My incoming fan 12V line does have a fuse. I do not use the thermo couple that came with the fans. I installed a switch inside the coach to turn the fans on and off as I see fit. This is because I believe the best way to help the fridge cool is to get as much air moving over the coils as possible. I will sometimes leave the fans running for several days. It makes quite a difference in the refer side temp. The freezer side seems to care not.

In my case I found the fiberglass chimney flue insulation that is slit for installation was wide open(read: never finished at the factory) generating a TON of heat in the exchanger cavity. I used aluminum tape and sealed it up top to bottom.
I also added 2 exhaust fans to the top flue. That requires removing the molded screen, but the install is no big deal at all. I used to have them running off the old solar panel but have since put them on the house supply.

Hint: If you're crazy enough to pull the unit, bring at least 2 power-lifters along.

Okay Jeff, I like the two fans. I'm assuming from the pic that yours must be a Dometic? Did you use a fuse? Inside switch like Gary? And where did you find the fans? Thanks

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I also added 2 exhaust fans to the top flue. That requires removing the molded screen, but the install is no big deal at all. I used to have them running off the old solar panel but have since put them on the house supply.

I just accessed the fan t-stat on my Norcold the same way. I found gutter guard at Home Depot that made a nice replacement to keep the critters out.
The width was perfect without cutting.

My fans still were off more than on so I followed Gary's lead and installed a switch to control the fans.

My Norcold had a fan in the coils already, but the fridge is in a slideout which means no top vent in the roof. There is a upper vent that provides a way for heat to escape it just needs some help. I used two computer fans, very low draw, wired together with a "snap disk" to control them. The snap disk is used in HVAC applications. It is a thermal controlled disk that kicks the fans on when the temps at the top of the cabinet reach 90 degrees. For power I hooked to the same thermal controlled wire that powers the lower fan in the coils. So the fans can only run when the refer has power, and turn off and on as needed. No switchs to turn on or off. It has been in since last season and has made a huge difference in the operation of the refer in hot climates.

Sarge

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Originally posted by steelhead_bluesman:
Okay Jeff, I like the two fans. I'm assuming from the pic that yours must be a Dometic? Did you use a fuse? Inside switch like Gary? And where did you find the fans? Thanks

It's a Norcold as well. I used the same screen as Jay from HD and fashioned up a really nice fitted screen. Initially I had the 2 top fans on the 15W solar panel that I left behind when I installed 300W of adult-size solar. The theory was that when it's hot and the Norcold fans need help, the sun will be out. Probably still true, but I discovered that the panel often doesn't have the umph' to get them spinning in the 1st place.

So it's now wired with the thermal swx's supplied with each fan, and the hi-temp clic-swx is attached to the hot side of the ammonia tube. Fridge on, fans get power and cycle as needed. I picked power off the +12 to the fridge itself and fused it at 1A, which is way more than enough. Should be @ 1/2A

Getting back to the original poster's question . . .

One "trick" I've learned is that you can remove the thermister from the fins at the top of the fridge compartment and lay it on the drip pan. Others have reported that both the freezer and fridge temps drop.

Jeff, thanks for the follow-up! I've been wondering if a small solar panel would actually drive a fan efficiently, and I appreciate hearing your experience on that. I've ordered a 12v fan and thermal switch, and plan to splice in a fuse, probably 1 or 1/2 amp, based on your info, plus I'll check the fan spec's when I get it. This will give me three fans cycling in hot weather, two pulling at the top and one pushing at the bottom just above the burner intake. Thanks to all for the help!

I just got the little fan for my fridge, but I need some help. On the 12 v. aux fan connection -- Can I splice the hot side of the fan into the 12 v supply wire that is going directly into the power board (circuit board)? It's the easiest to locate, but I don't want to mess with the "brain-board" if it could cause a problem with the draw to run the fridge. I don't see how an additional 1/2 amp draw could affect anything else, but.... Any comments will help, thanks.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: steelhead_bluesman,

Check the bottom floor of your vent opening mine has a 12v termination block located there.
You may have the same.