Where do you set the regulator for the compressor?

It is air and electric. That is why you have a dash mounted toggle switch. This switch operates a solenoid that engages or disengages allowing air to the cylinder on the PacBrake, either from your air system or a secondary compressor. As far as setting the regulator, I am not sure where it would be or if, in my case, there is one. The cylinder could be internally regulated.

FWIW, I use this lubricant and flood the lower right point shown, which is right above the butterfly valve and it's shaft. The rust "coating" I can see on a few components is what I will be looking in to removing in the near future. I also use the PacBrake almost all the time. I always use it on the freeways, on and offramps, hills etc. but shut it off if I am idling around through campgrounds so maybe that is why mine works.

http://www.pacbrake.com/index.php?page=maintenance

The new PRXB model has a secondary spring and a modified, ventilated butterfly valve. Apparently it allows a more even braking feel and operation and the Mfr. is offering a discounted rate on upgrading existing units...but the $740 price of admission is still too high for me.

http://www.pacbrake.com/index.php?page=prxb-exhaust-brakes-2

Ken

Here are the pics of my PacBrake.



You can see the areas that are lubricated. I lube the front and rear pivots for the air cylinder, the air cylinder shaft and the shaft that attaches the "porkchop" shaped cam that connects to the butterfly valve in the housing below. This is the point (where this shaft penetrates the housing) that I "flood" with the PacBrake lubricant. As I posted earlier, I use the exhaust brake for everything except idling through campgrounds and below 10 mph. It works fine...for now.

I hope this clarifies things for those that had questions. Oh, the line coming into the rear of the air cylinder is...the...AIR line... but I couldn't see where it went nor where the solenoid was located.

BTW, you can see a small shaft to the right of the turbo housing. I believe that goes to the waste gate and I lubricate it as well. You can see how hot the turbo gets by the fact that there is no paint on it nor on anything directly connected to it. It would actually benefit from a ceramic coating like Jet Hot and if/when I need to have it rebuilt (hopefully never), I will have this done as it helps cool the turbo and related connections helping it last longer.

As a side note, this is why it is critical that the engine oil be changed more frequently on turbo-diesels than gas engines and why you should use a HD diesel oil. Dyno or synthetic doesn't mean much to me since I will change the oil out once a year. For us, this equates to between 3000-4000 miles. If we were traveling more per year, I would most likely switch to synthetic.

I also have found that the lubricating properties, viscocity and lifespan of the Shell Rotella 15w40 (and the Shell Rimula 15w40) to be better than the Delo400 I have been using so I may switch the next time I change out the engine oil. And for the Allison trans, I may be going to the Shell Donax Tx since it is approved by Allison and is quite a bit less expensive than the Transynd ($7.84 vs $10.35 per quart).

I would recommend that you buy from a bulk plant as it is cheaper than the normal stores which have a high markup.

Sorry about the digression into the oil rant...

quote:

I have been thinking about taking it off and sandblasting the rusting components, then having them Jet Hot coated. I think it happens due to the high temperatures and the cheap zinc or cad plating on these parts. The Jet Hot coating would cure this for ever so the next time I look at it, I'll take some pics and post for comments.

I like a guy who uses his head !!! I really like that idea, AND, it might work well on other components, as well. Robbie

I sort of have a problem with lubrication of the Pac brake. If anyone has had one apart you will see that the bottom of the shaft sits in a well. I don't see how the lube can get down into there. I had to take mine apart and I used a valve grinding compound and cleaned out the well using the butterfly shaft and lapped it in. I then took a mixture of Pac brake lube and high temp anti sieze and put it in the well and then put the shaft in and re assembled the unit. After 5 years it is still working. In your manual it states that you have to have the engine up to temp before shutting down to avoid rust in the pac brake. It gets in there and rusts solid. Mine will not now.

quote:

Originally posted by quikduk:


I have been thinking about taking it off and sandblasting the rusting components, then having them Jet Hot coated. I think it happens due to the high temperatures and the cheap zinc or cad plating on these parts. The Jet Hot coating would cure this for ever so the next time I look at it, I'll take some pics and post for comments.

Not familiar with Jet Hot coating. Can you explain and where can it be applied? Sounds like a worthwhile project.

mark