Who is using a spray in type liner in the bed of there truck? What brand? Are you happy with it? Any concerens before I have mine done? I am using just a rubber matt now the bed liner was moving around causing the camper to shift and wearing through the paint in my bed. How much is fair price for under the rail short bed without tailgate? A lot of questions I know. Thanks in advance. Scotty.

Scotty, I don't know the brand name of the liner that was sprayed in my truck. I had it done by the dealer I bought it from, and he took care of it. The last truck I had I had the Rhino Liner sprayed in it. The cost on it was around $350. I would not have a truck without the sprayed in liner. It is great. Nothing you put back there slides around, and they are great at protecting the bed. No dents, no paint getting scraped, and something I think that is really great NO RUST. IMHO I think you should go for it. No matter the cost it is worth it, and in some instances it can even add to the resale value of the truck.

drop in liners are a bad choice for hauling a camper, as you've found out. My only caution is that you need to continue to use a rubber mat over your new spray-in liner in order to keep the camper from shifting.

Dave

I have a Line-X spray in liner. Got it done when the truck was new. Love it.
It went down before my 5th wheel rails went in.
After 5 years it still looks good.
Chet

We are on our second Sierra with a Rihno liner. It was sprayed within two days of taking delivery of the truck. We have a Lance 1010 and it doesn't move with the sprayed in lining. As jdoc said our lining was as nice when we traded the truck at 95,000 miles as when it was new.

I have Line-X. Both Rhino & Line-X are good. Line-X is a little harder, Rhino is a little less slippery. Spray the tail gate also. Make them remove all the hardware (bolts, tie-downs, panels, etc) before they spray. Make sure they leave your bed drain holes open or your camper will be setting in standing water.

The most important thing is the quality of the application, bed prep, etc. Don’t let them trim the stuff with a carpet knife and cut your paint down to the metal. Go to the shop and look at some vehicles they just finished, not their display truck…..look closely, very closely.

Good Luck,
BradW

Thank you all my truck should go in this weekend if all go's weel. Scotty.

Foxr-

It seemed like Rhino lining was a bit more rubbery. The lin-x was harder. I have had both. My choice with a camper will always be Rhino lining.

Tom

Rhino only here too!
Had my 92 diesel dually CTD Dodge done at 100k miles of heavy towing in mid 97. Another almost 200k miles and it is still bulletproof, despite six years of fulltime travel, and various loads of equipment and sundry gravel, dirt, etc. loads. I chose black because it weathers to a nice charcoal requiring no upkeep. However, I have a few times siliconed it for appearance and it looked like new. But the increased slipperiness was not worth it.

Brad recommended the tailgate be done too and I agree with him. But one more suggestion. Have them do the tops of the box/bed walls too. Instead of protective rails or paint that scratches, the Rhino will always be there. Mine has never turned loose at the edges, had a section cut out, or anything. I doubt it could be removed with tools it adheres so well.

If you order the top of the box sides to be done, they cut it very nicely, so it looks great too.

I agree with doing the tops of the bedrails. Before I had my done, I managed to put a small dent about the size of a quarter on the rear top corner of the bedrail along with a scape down the top of the rail. When they did my spray in, they filled the dent and sprayed over it. The cost of the spray in liner was the same as it would have cost to fix the dent.