Been winterizing my RVs for almost 30 years myself, and I understand the process, but this is my first RV with an icemaker (know my plan there) and a whole house filter. The filter doesn't have the bypass built into it...my question is can I just remove the filter media and will it just fill the container w/antifreeze?

I just installed a bypass tee/valve at my pump and plan on sucking in the antifreeze from that location, I'm guessing it will flow through the whole house filter even though it is at the opposite end of the RV by the city water connection...am I right?

I will be draining all lines and blowing them out before adding the antifreeze, and I know it may not be necessary but I like the insurance.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: GerryB54,

Om my American Tradition all the water flows through the filter, whether from shore or pumped from tank, so in my case the antifreeze would go through the filter. I suspect your Bounder is similar, but don't know for a fact.

I would remove the filter cartridge.

I planned on removing it, but got a good response post elsewhere...put an empty 12 oz spring water bottle (w/o label) in it's place to fill some of the volume...good idea!

Hi Gerry,

I have a 2006 Pace Arrow and followed Fleetwood's winterizing instructions the first time. I ran into real problems with their method. First, they tell you to drain all the lines at the low point valves and then dump five gallons of antifreeze into the fresh water tank. The problem with this is that five gallons is not enough to prime the pump so I had to add water until the pump would prime so wasted the first five gallons of antifreeze.

I had a Winnebago previously and their method made a lot more sense to me. I installed a siphon tube and now I don't drain the lines and just pump antifreeze into the system so you can see the colored fluid coming out of each faucet and outlet.

I made up my own procedure for winterizing and you are welcome to it. I can email it to you if you request. You may email me at famprovideo@comcast.net or call me at 865-919-2043.

Regards,

Pat Geddes
Knoxville, TN

Thanks, Pat...I've always been a do it yourself winterizer for almost 30 years/now 7 RVs...got the concept and procedure down...I also would never add antifreeze to the fresh water tank...I have a siphon tee/fitting I installed at the pump to pull the antifreeze in from there (after I blew all the lines out with air.) I never even bothered to look for or read Fleetwood's instructions for winterizing.

The whole house filter and the ice maker were new to me, but got both of those procedures covered now.

Like GerryG54, I would never put antifreeze in the fresh water tank. To winterize I drain the tank and the water heater then turn the water heater valve to "bypass". Then I pump antifreeze through the pipes. (Should install a tee but just pull the intake hose and stick it in the jug) I also don't run antifreeze through the ice maker line either. I turn off the valve and blow out the line.

My house filter is before the water inlet so I just unscrew the housing, dump the water and put it back together with the media still in it. No antifreeze in the filter as flushing it would put it into the water tank.

quote:

My house filter is before the water inlet so I just unscrew the housing, dump the water and put it back together with the media still in it. No antifreeze in the filter as flushing it would put it into the water tank.

My house filter is in the utilities compartment and the city water goes into the system before it...but the water pump is up almost under the passenger front seat area, and that is where I'll be pulling the antifreeze in from...guess I'll check the filter canister after that to see if antifreeze gets there...I'm guessing it will, since the hot water/cold water low point valves are back there as well, and I expect antifreeze to come out of them when I crack them open with the pump on/antifreeze in system.

On another note, I also rigged up a piping system so when I open the low point valves they won't run into the utility compartment.

I used 5/8" ID plastic tubing attached to the two valve barbed ends w/hose clamps, a barbed tee turned sideways and a barbed x 3/4" hose thread coupling...I'll attach a short garden hose to the coupling and run it out the sewer hose opening so it drains to the ground.

Gerry, on my 35E I drop the cannister and filter off and store away, then I remove the inlet and outlet line simply put them on a short piece of pipe threaded on both ends. You buy/make the pipe easily/cheaply at any place that has plumbing supply (Lowes,etc) This is an easy bypass of the filter any time you might want to.

JIMOC...Thanks for the info, I have seen the short bypass pipe, may be another option for me...my connections are behind the panel, but still "kinda" accessible.

Well, broke down and ran the pink stuff thru the system today for the first time with the new RV. Bypass valve/tee I installed at the pump worked perfectly, as well as the 3/4" hose connection and the short hose used to pull the fluid through the system.

Total antifreeze usage was slightly higher than when I used to do my Class Cs, but still only 2 1/2 gallons including the 1/2 gallon dumped down the kitchen/bathroom/shower traps, so all in all very good.

The icemaker line was also winterized easily (to the valve before the solenoid valve behind the refer...pink stuff squirted out the open end as needed! I didn't forget the outside faucet/sprayer in the utility compartment.

Also relieved pressure and got pink flow at the city water connection valve where hose connects.

Guess I won't de-winterize till our April trip to Disneyworld, unless something comes up...never had a problem dewinterizing and rewinterizing if a need for a trip arises...Happy Camping!