Hello!

I have a 97 Pace Arrow 35 footer. I find out last night the electrical system is acting funny, and planned on leaving today of course.

When all of the breakers in the coach are turned on, and I plug in to my garage power, the GFCI (in the garage)will trip. So, I started shutting certain breakers off trying to find one that causes it. I found the breaker labelled "Appliances" will instantly trip the GFCI in my garage.

I then noticed at one point, my fridge light that said "check" was lit up, so I powered it off and back on and it was ok on gas, but will not switch to AC.

With that "appliance" breaker off, I have no 110v to the charger outlet either. (unless it was a different breaker, I have like 8 of them so I might be forgetting)

Here's the part that makes me wonder something, I drove it the night before last to fill propane and dump the tanks, and after I got home and replugged in the 110v, it was smelling like burning rubber type stuff, but I figured it was oil since I had just changed it. Now I wonder if it is some electrical problem.

The GFCI trip is telling you something is shorted to ground. Could be a hot wire or a neutral, but something is. Apparently it is on the Appliance circuit (smart move to turn the breakers off like that). The next step is to shut down the individual appliance on that circuit one by one if possible. Some of them can probably be unplugged and that may isolate the problem further. The "burning rubber" smell is not a good sign - try to figure out where it comes from. Might be a burned out heater element in the fridge, since that seems to have a problem as well.

Oh, I didn't know there was a heating element in the fridge. If the 110v one burned out, would the fridge probably still work on LP power?

Yes, the fridge would still work, beleive it or not the refrigeration works by heating a tube filled with ammonia, when on 120 or 12volt (if so equipt)the heating element heats the ammonia, when on gas, a small flame heats it. You should be able to open the door on the outside behind the refrigerator and unplug it. you will probally see the source of the burning smell there also. With it unplugged try the ground fault outlet again. If it does not trip, then there's your problem.

I have the same problem and my surge-protector picked it up I have to change the electric element. Working on gas for now.
I have a question the leads from element go to the printed ckt board and pin on to board.
Has anyone ever cut these leads and spliced them thru leaving the ckt board pins alone? The element is sure to go again would just make it easier for next time.
The cover is a pain to remove with all the other wiring that is plugged on it, thats why I asked.

007, there would not be a problem to cut and even install new male spade connectors on the leads off the control board and install a new heating element(s). Even the large refrigerators only need about 6 amps to run the heaters. Good luck and keep us posted.

Now why didn't I think of that, thats why your the WIZARD. Thanks "007"

Mine turned out to be the main power cord, the connectors on the end of the 30 amp cord were melting the rubber, and shorting out. Replaced the cord, and all is good. kinda weird.