As there has been on and off discussions on the Black Tank Flush system, thought I would do a BP on my unit's system. Should be similar to most.

Includes a photo post, a drawing of the Flush System that was included in the Owners Manual and several web-links. Some might have been seen before but decided to group it all together in one place. One drawing, Waste System Overview, was not included because it was posted recently and trying to keep things short. As if that ever happens.

AAV Air Admittance Valve
AAV How it works
Backflow Preventive Device
Backflow How it works

Glossary of Service Terms

AAV: The purpose of vents is to allow air to enter the plumbing drainage waste and vent system and equalize pressure when water drains out of the system maintaining the integrity of the water trap that prevents sewer gases from entering the building through fixture drains.

Vacuum Breaker: An anti-siphon device that prevents the backflow of contaminated water into the water supply system.

Check Valve: A type of backflow prevention installed in a pipe run to allow water to flow in only one direction.

Back Flow Preventer: A device to prevent water from traveling from one system back into any part of the main distribution system, usually by siphoning, especially into a potable water supply. Generally required for sprinkler systems, handheld showers, pullout faucet spouts, kitchen sprayers

Anti-Siphon: Preventive device for the backflow of liquid into a system.



Hope something helps.

Chris







Photo of Flush device used on current model waste tank. Photo provided by ExcelRVGuy.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Workshop,

Whats that old saying...."Is it Live or is it Memorex".

Well, "Is it a Dryer Sheet or is it Septic Paper"?

Since the powers of using dryer sheets to clean windshields and remove bugs has been talked about in good favor. Came across this fabric over the weekend while working on the drainage in the yard. Had a 3' by whatever roll in the greenhouse for some time and never made the connection of what it looked like until I had several cut pieces to pick up.

Used a piece to wash the truck's windshield and bumper of the Florida bugs and it did as good a job as the dryer sheet. Only difference you can cut and use a larger sheet depending on how large you need. Home Depot has it in the plumbing/drainage area and comes in 24" and 36" widths and sold by the foot. Cheap. Sure Lowes and any plumbing store will carry. The material I have is several years old and has a tighter material 'weave' than what I saw yesterday.

For what its worth....use Rain-X windshield washer fluid and have been pleased with the results.





"Septic" on the left and "Dryer" on the right.

Hope something helped.

This is one of several simple securing/locking cables I’ve been using. Have one for the bikes, the ‘Baby Q’ if it’s left out along with its portable Propane tank, the portable Tote-Along as necessary___well most everything if you think about it.

Recently I decided to make a cable for the power cord as well. The cost of $300 for a replacement was good incentive. A recent letter in TL commented on power cords that had been stolen from units that were in the park they were staying. Being in the building industry, there is a growing problem with Air Conditioning systems and electrical wiring being stolen out of homes during construction or vacant.

Can say in the +45 years in the outdoors backpacking to RVing there has been few problems with items missing. Can also say I have been in places where others have. Ones sometimes wonder if its luck or because of precautions that were taken. Also know that one can’t protect something that someone wants bad enough.

The intent is to keep it as simple as one can and make it hard enough that if it’s taken it’s not a walk off.

All my cables are 1/4 to 3/8 inch vinyl coated cables that are cut and ‘end’ specific for the task. The Cord Keeper is 5 ft. in length. The cable end is loose enough to clamp over the cable and tight enough to keep it secure. Didn’t include specific placement of the ferrules to keep the post short. If requested, will do a follow-up.

Hope something helped.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Workshop,

This is very simple little thing I do as an additional safety check on hitching up the rig to the Tug. On my Reese 20K hitch when the release lever is in a position where you can lock the handle you can be assured the jaws are closed and the pin locked. But as a secondary precaution, we check the jaws themselves to make sure they are closed. With that area dark sometimes it's hard to see. I painted the sides of the jaws with flourescent orange paint to make it easier to see. I used spray paint this time, but will use a brush application type (Walmart for $1.50) in the future. This is a bit crude but works. Of course, clean the area to be painted before applying paint. Since the pin itself has grease on it, this area will have to be touched up from time to time. Simple but effective. Tom



Here's what it looks like with the pin in it.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rockintom,

Here is some info on restringing your day/night shades on your Excel. Mostly pictures that I took when doing one two string shade on my unit. As with anything, the first one seems a bit difficult, so allow at least an hour to do it. The next ones takes more like a half an hour. If you're in a hurry or uptight wait to do it at a better time! A glass of wine may be in order! Take your time, be patient and careful especially with the material or shade fabric. It tears fairly easily. Lots of patiences! Just keep in mind the string crosses at each section of the shade, whether it's a 2 string or 4 string. Hope this helps. Here's some pix to help you "see" what's happening.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rockintom,

ADDING A COOLING FAN TO THE ENTERTAINMENT CENTER COMPARTMENT

We just added a Dish DVR to our entertainment system. This device is a satellite receiver and PC rolled into one and generates quite a bit of heat. Add to that the heat generated by the DVD player and surround sound AV system and the compartment was getting VERY HOT. This is not good for electronic equipment. Back in February, I added a rear access door to make getting to the rats nest of cables much easier. Now, with the heat buildup that the equipment was causing, I knew I needed to do further modifications. When I checked the available space I realized that there should be space to add a computer style muffin fan. Even better news, Radio Shack had a close out table with clearance prices on a multitude of computer case parts. I selected a thermistor controlled, two-speed ball bearing fan and a black bezel with a foam filter.

Here is the front view of the crowded entertainment equipment cabinet:


Here is the rear view with the wiring access door open and the fan installed:


The fan is a 12VDC fan and I used the old 12V power wire that used to power the Excel installed AV switch which is no longer used.

Here is the finished fan installation with the filter bezel installed:


Note the MP3 player with two input wires. One wire goes to the auxiliary AV receiver audio input and the other wire goes to the automotive-style stereo that has speakers in the garage and under the outside awning. The white wire is an FM radio antenna for the AV receiver.

I used a large hole saw to cut the main fan opening and an appropriate small drill bit for the four mounting screws. Everything went together without a hitch and the fan is doing a good job of pulling the heat out of the compartment.

If you have your entertainment equipment is located in a small or crowded space, you may want to check to see how hot the compartment is getting. If it feels very hot, you may be shortening the life of the equipment.

Cheers,

Chris,

Nice report and nice idea! You are absolutely correct. Heat is the biggest enemy of electronics. With that set up you may not need to use your LP furnance this winter....how many BTUs do you reckon that thing puts out?

Window Valance Falling? DON'T PANIC!





The left side of valance on our largest window fell off of the ceiling while I was closing the blind. YIKES! This should not be a problem. When a structure will be mobile, anything that is mounted should be solidly mounted to the framing.

Looked at just reattaching using the original screws--yeah right. Neither screw went into a ceiling joist, just the thin ceiling board. So I grabbed a cordless drill, my handy dandy stud finder and a screw driver. Wouldn't you know that the installer managed to straddle the ceiling joist. Ugh! Drilled a hole in the valance, installed an 2.5" drywall screw, being sure to hit the joist, and the problem was solved. Also, it appears the the right side was securely attached, so no additional screws were added on the right side.