Workshop's post yesterday on locking a power cable reminds me of my own question about a better entry door lock.

Has anyone improved on the puny RV door lock found on our and other trailers? Doesn't take much to get through that lock mechanism.

I consulted a locksmith, who could only suggest an ugly padlock on the exterior, and even then with some difficulty given the uneven surface from the door over to the frame. Or a good deadbolt on the interior for security when at home.

My computer data is my most valuable asset, so I take it with me in the truck and keep a backup in the traler. And a backup in the glove box.

I know that many FTers install a safe for fire and theft. Is that the only alternative?

Thanks Bruce and Jenna! I've been thinking the same thing ever since we owned our first RV. I would prefer the electronic locks found on the high-end MHs, to include all the exterior storage/utility compartments.

quote:

Originally posted by ChiefJohn:
Thanks Bruce and Jenna! I've been thinking the same thing ever since we owned our first RV. I would prefer the electronic locks found on the high-end MHs, to include all the exterior storage/utility compartments.

What Chief? With those ferocious guard dogs you guys have?

'Rockin', isn't it past your bed time?

Bruce,

My '92 Excel had a household deadbolt that I really liked. Is was that way when I got it, but I think it was built that way. I have also seen this on a Newmar fifth wheel.

The bad thing about this is it is only as strong as what the side wall is. Will only slow down the lazy thiefs.

Bruce,
Chief,
I'm with Larry on this one. One could put in a steal door with a 10" dead bolt and I think I could pry it open with a crowbar. Seems to me that the door frame would have to be improved significantly then a new dead bolt may work.

Until you have seen a door that has gone thru a potential break-in, the door locks that are currently on RV's are pretty good... We have seen several doors that were the result of a potential break in. The main door handle lock will not survive, but usually if the customer has the dead bolt locked, the thief doesn't get thru it. The regular handle, you can take a screw driver or plyers and stick it into the pull handle and pop the little locking latch that holds the latch locked. But the dead bolt you need to be at it for quite a while. The sad thing is if the thief is smart enough they will just break the window, reach thru and just unlock the door and in they are.

One thing everyone should check out is how far their deadbolt is going into the frame/wall. Most units the frame of the door is built, the door installed and the deadbolt stops when it hits the wood frame work. If they have not been routiered out to allow the lock to fully extend they can make it easier to pry the door open. If this is the case, you can take a drill and bit and drill out the frame a little to allow the bolt to fully extend.
How to check this. With your door closed turn you key to lock the deadbolt. See were your key stops, mark it, then reopen your door. Do the same thing again, turn you key to see how far the key will turn to allow the bolt to fully extend. If it hits your mark, then it is out all the way, if not you will need to drill your frame a little to allow the bolt.

Good luck to all.

Welcome back Tom ('Wrongway'), it's always nice to have your input/guidance on our RV issues.
John

Tom,

Great info. Thanks for the reminders about our lock mechanism. I didn't realize how easy it would be break the lock on the handle. Glad you think like a thief!!! I will be locking both from now on. Tom

Thats why they said I was in "Sales", because we are all little thiefs.