16.__Subject: Basement moisture monitors

As the name might suggest, this post has to do with installing moisture monitors in the basement area of my unit. I have been one of those who haven’t had a problem to date with water leaks in the basement area. After a look in the area after it was discussed on the Forum, I decided to modify the wall that separates the storage area and the utility area that houses the furnace, water tank and everything else that makes the unit self contained.

One was to modify the door access to the heater, curbside, by removing screws and installing a cabinet magnet catch. This allows the door to be functional and easier access to that area. On the roadside wall I removed one of the smaller panels and installed a Plexiglas window that will allow viewing of the area with the ‘Landscaping’ equipment hanging and one Tote removed. Also installed a light as it’s somewhat dark in there. Like the option of viewing the areas without having a lot of time involved or having to move a lot. Understand current models have a sliding door that separates the areas. Progress is good.

Installed WATCHDOG WATER ALARMS to both sides on the units. OTHER ALARMS were available but the Watchdogs were available from my local Lowes store. As you will be able to tell from the photos, my systems are split and felt one monitor would not give the protection I wanted. As space and wall area was limited, mounted the monitors, using Velcro, to the water tank. This gives good area coverage and will monitor their location/performance as time passes.

As usual tried to explain what I see in the area. Sure some things are the same and some different. Just hope something helps.

Next series of Posts will be the sofa/dinette slide repair. Dealing with several issues on the same slide, I will post on each issue to make it manageable and making the first of those posts an overview of the slide.

Hope something helped.

Chris

17.__Problems with the sofa/dinette slide

Wanted to start this post off by saying we have had our Excel for a year the 29th of June? It has been a fast year! One would think by my post on the ‘Beast’ that it can’t be pulled out of the driveway without something falling off. All you hear about are compartment doors, lag screws, repair to the floor and wall. You know all the good stuff. Don’t forget the pictures that show the rusted screw and those areas that should have been washed before the picture was taken. I guess doing a series of post like this doesn’t show my unit in a good ‘light’ when you think of it. But for the sake of science someone would have to do it.

Actually for a unit that will be 8 years old this model year, it’s a nice unit. Its quality built, the interior is like new, has a lot of upgrades and amenities that makes life nice and because of those__ I chose a older unit than what I was looking for originally, 3-4 yrs was ideal. Won’t say who wears the pants in my house___but she wouldn’t let me buy new.

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With that said. One might call this an overview or summary of issues I had with the sofa/dinette slide on my unit. I initially posted a Topic: How is the floor attached? on the 2nd of June. With information I received from Forum member 75v that answered my question, work started on the repair of the slide.

As you will see from this and the following series of post, there where several issues as I like to call them, that I worked on at the same time. One flowed into the other as if they belonged together but in the end they could have been separate issues into themselves. It just worked out they were all in one place waiting for me to do something with them.

When I mentioned the issues were unrelated to each other__in a way that’s true. In a way they were. The thing that ties the wall/floor separation, the rear skirt, the forward skirt and the timing of the inner rail, or ram, together is moisture. All at some point were damaged or affected because the caulk protecting those areas failed allowing the wood to remain damp and eventually causing the problems they did. I mention the moisture problems only to stress the importance of keeping your unit caulked and sealed the best you can. The major problems with my unit were and are moisture related. Take moisture away and I would be spending time waxing the roof and commenting about that instead.

Regardless if your unit is a year old or a 2001 like mine, look at your unit’s caulk and trim and make whatever adjustments or repairs that are needed to keep your unit dry. Work up a checklist of areas to inspect and do it often. Regardless of the Brand or the Model we choose, if you have an RV you have the potential of having moisture issues and possibly will.

The next post will be ‘the Repair to the curbside slide’s side wall’. Others will follow that include how I modified the slide ‘lawn chair’ storage compartment, ‘A question of Elevation: Not always as it seems’ that discusses the problem I thought I had with the alignment on the right side of the slide. There is ‘Skirt’ repairs, a ‘Nose Cone’ replacement and information on the EZ-Slide hardware from Barker Mfg.

Who would have guessed so much could come from one place.

Chris

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18.__Repair to curbside slide’s side wall

This will start off the post on the repair of the sofa/dinette slide. I decided to group them together by like subject rather than the order in which they were completed. Meaning the slide repair, the skirts, the slide hardware etc.

The repair was pretty straight forward, as with any repair it has to be planned out in steps. The best but worst thing about this series of repairs was they were all on the same slide. The only thing that was uncertain was how one repair would affect the other. What didn’t change was the left top corner is still ‘leaning’, maybe ½ inch. After a lot of head scratching, it goes back to my initial thought, caused by the selling dealer’s repair. The slide seals and I’m probably the only one who would notice it so just one of those things we learn to live with.

Lucky if you want to call it that was the fact the damage was prior damage and wasn’t wet inside when the wall was opened up. Being the third owner of the unit one never knows what to expect when buying used. From the caulk job on the unit, the prior owner sealed the unit fairly well. Found I had moisture issues after I bought the unit but it could have been worst. Sealed those and working on removing and caulking everything by the time I’m through. Will wait until future post # 24 to talk about the trim and caulk for this project. There I added new trim and changed out the old vinyl insert which is also being done when the caulk is being replaced. Seemed like a good time to do it as so much trim was already removed.

I know I said it in the last Post but check your caulk and sealant and check it often.

Post #19 will discuss the Florida termite and the effect they have on our units?

Hope something helped,

Chris

19.__Storage compartment: Slide storage modification

Well, there were no ‘termites’. Just needed a little drama. That’s not to say we don’t have termites here is Florida. Luckily they don’t have chainsaws but the damage is just as costly.

This project was the result of wanting paneling. It just happened this was a good place to get it as another project was going on. Tried to find the ‘Whisper sage’ pattern since purchasing the unit. No such luck.

We use ‘beach chairs’ a lot, keep the regular folding chairs in the bathroom closet. Figure I have two good years left and after that might have to start using chairs where I’m not sitting on the ground. One thing this project did was make the compartment slightly deeper which made it easier to put both chairs on one side. The other side is where I store a 4 foot folding table, which I sometimes use next to the sites picnic table for the grille if needed, plus two small folding side tables. The new area in the back easily handles the ‘beach umbrellas’, broom, brush and other small items we all carry. But now I don’t have to unload those things to get the chairs out.

The way the sofa is designed; it allowed a project like this. Just needed to do a few measurements and design the extension so the sofa would slide back and over the new frame. Because the original wall was made with double sided paneling and ¾” framing, very little weight was added in the modification.

Hope something helped,

Chris

20.__A question of Elevation: Not always what it seems.

This is a Post about a repair that’s not a repair but a repositioning. One of the many issues that I had with the slide was its alignment. With this situation, I assumed it was also alignment related.

At the start of this series of projects I had to visually look at the slide, determine what needed to be repaired and the order is which they would be completed. I had hoped that the completion of one project or issue would also correct another? In the case of the wall/floor separation, completing that repair didn’t correct the wall leaning problem that started all this off. Had to then assume, would correcting the alignment of the right side of the slide have an affect on the left side leaning? After all if one side is higher than it should, wouldn’t it affect the opposite corner?

Part of the problem with visually troubleshooting a problem is the mixed signals we sometimes see. In this repair I noticed that the trim flange on the right side of the slide was high and not matching, or being level with, the trim that surrounded the slide opening. Plus the spacing between the two trim pieces was tight at the bottom and wide at the top of the slide. The confusion occurred when checking the spacing between the slide’s flange and trim in other positions around the slide. On the left side it was equal; on the top right it closely matched the left. The one thing that made it difficult and should have been done earlier was to remove the slide’s awning so a better ‘visual’ inspection of the slide could be had.

After ‘head scratching’ because the visual clues didn’t match, I removed the awning to check the space between the flange and trim. Well, it was equal also. One could only come to the conclusion that the slide was not vertically out of alignment as suspected, which was good news but something else was causing the ‘visual’ problems I was having and of course, this too wouldn’t correct the wall leaning issue. As you might sense, I wanted it to go away. :-)))

In the process of looking, visual of course, for what might be causing the problem, I remembered the caulk, or the amount of it on the side wall of the slide where the flange and bottom trim met. Upon further inspection the caulk appeared to be 1/4 inch in depth at the bottom and narrowed as it got to the top of the trim. Questions were: was the side wall bowed or was it leaning and not square?

Using a 4 foot rigid straight edge and level, I was able to conclude the wall was not bowed. This was determined by placing the straight edge flat on the wall and checking for high and low areas. Next I determined that the trim was out of ‘plumb’ with the side wall by placing the level on the wall and noticing the bubble and then checking the flange trim. That indicated the trim was out of plumb about the spacing of the caulk, 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch.

The sidewall’s bottom trim and the right side flange were removed to inspect the corner and installation. The old caulk was removed from both surfaces and after another one of those ‘visual’ inspections; the trim was held back into position. Needless to say it fit tight against the corner and the trim set flush with each other.

What was the moral of the story? Things aren’t always what they seem. Instead of an alignment problem, it was an installation error. Simpler but still a lot of worry and work.

Next post will be: Are your holes in the right place?

Hope something helped.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Workshop,

Oh, OK. At first glance, I thought you were adding an elevator to the trailer.

OMG...you just gave Workhorse a new idea! Debra, the banker, oughta really like the elevator project!!!

Seriously, Chris....alot of fabulous stuff you're doing here, my friend. I, for one, really appreciate your great and hard work! Thanks! Tom

21.__Are your holes in the right place?

As you might have noticed I have been trying to keep some of the Topics shorter by making them subject related and not include the kitchen sink. This makes it easier to compose, write and for you….to read. Now I just need to control my long winded introduction of the Post.

Are your holes in the right place refers to the placement of existing holes when trim is removed and repositioned or changed as in the prior post. It was determined that the flange trim had been installed in the wrong position. When the trim was removed and repositioned, the top two holes on the face of the flange aligned, the next mostly, then slightly and by three quarters down new holes were needed. The holes on the side of the flange were 1/4 to 1/2 hole width out. This created a problem using the existing holes or drilling a new hole within the ‘space’ of an existing one. Thus making the hole larger and weaken the effects of the screw or creating a situation where the screws are driven in at an angle or slightly so and not seating correctly.

To help correct this, dowel plugs was glued in the existing holes where a problem existed. A dowel slightly larger than the present screw hole, a drill bit that matched the dowel and yellow wood glue was used to make the repairs.

First I would drill the existing holes to a depth of about an inch plus. Using cut dowels that were +1 1/2 inches in length, I would load the dowel down with glue and insert it into the hole. When it felt it was at the end of its travel, I would seat it with a light tap of a hammer. It would then be broken off as close as possible to the hole opening and using a punch with a broad face tap the dowel flush. The excess glue and dowel is cleaned up and allowed to dry and harden.

When the screws are ready to be installed, a VIX BIT is used to drill the new hole. These are self centering bits which ensure a ‘perfect hole every time’. Silicone is applied to a paper towel and the screw’s shaft if wiped through before installing. Mineral spirits is used to clean up the excess.

The drill, glue and dowel repair can be used on most any screw hole repair when the situation shows itself.

Post number 22 will be__Front Skirt: Repairing water damage.

Hope something helped.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Workshop,

22.__Front Skirt: Repairing water damage.

This post will cover the repair of the front skirt of the slide. It’s the small section forward of the wheel well. When I bought the unit, it had a bolt installed from the outside of the skirt that secured it to the slide ram plate. A year ago I had no idea what that was or the fact it indicated a problem. What a difference a year makes.

With the flange trim removed to correct the ‘height issue’, decided to look into why the bolt was mounted outside and reinstall the bolt behind the trim to achieve a better look. I had poked and finger tapped the area before and it didn’t indicate a problem. It wasn’t until the bolt was positioned on the fiberglass and tightened that a soft sidewall issue became noticeable. The tighter the bolt, the more deflection there was in the area around the bolt head. So it was time to remove additional items and look for a problem.

Found prior water damage. As before, no moisture present. Why…..not sure but glad for small things. With the trim and fabric removed, found that the 2x2 bottom plate that the bolt passed through was rotten and provided no support. The two 2x2 skirt studs that were attached to the plate had no damage and allowed for an easier repair. The 2x4 or larger piece that formed the angled section of the front of the fender was also rotten at the bottom of the material. The backer for the fiberglass had minor damage at the bottom and the inside panel had several inches that needed to be removed.

The repair was pretty straight forward and required no special tools to complete. The wire harness that passed through the skirt presented a minor issue as to how to get the wires within the framing. The photos will take you through that and shouldn’t be a problem if tried. A trim screw had nicked the ground wire leading to the outlets on the slide. Because the screw didn’t cause other damage to another wire, it was cleaned up and coated with several coats of Liquid Tape and then wrapped with electrical tape.

With the new bolt installed and the ram plated fastened, the trim was ready to be installed at the bottom of the skirt. Unfortunately the trim didn’t cover the carriage bolt head or the hole in the fiberglass. The bolt was removed and construction adhesive installed in the hole and on the bolt and installed. The adhesive will help secure the bolt and prevent future movement. It was tighten to the ram plate and excess adhesive was removed from the bolt head to setup the next step. To repair the enlarged hole, Marine-Tex putty was used to patch the area. Several layers were applied to get to the finish level. The area was wet sanded in between, then compounded and polished to get the final finish.

A new section of trim was installed. The prior piece had been damaged by the outside bolt and after repair/cleanup attempts it didn’t pass inspection. Hard to believe it cost more for fuel to get to an RV parts department than the cost of the trim. Trim and caulk will be posted in #24.

By the time you get to ‘Everything back together’ on sheet 6, the front and rear skirts are repaired and I was talking to PI and Al Talley, another Excel owner, about slide ram timing or alignment.

Oh____ the next post will be Rear Skirt Rebuild: trying to make it better.

I’m glad it’s taking longer to post the repairs on the slide than it took to complete them.



Hope something helped.

23.__Rear Skirt rebuild: trying to make it better

By the time you read this, all the repairs on the slide has been completed and I’m working on the posts. Sometimes wonder how I ended up with more to write-up than I did projects, but hope I can get them all done this year.

When I purchased the unit last year, the selling dealer made a repair to the rear skirt due to water damage. Even though the slide functioned, the visual part of the repair left something that said: It could be done better.

The trim strip that was installed to cover the cut in the fiberglass was in three pieces?!?! The fabric on the inside of the skirt wasn’t tight and could have been installed in a way to make it moisture proof. Also the trim on the bottom of the skirt was missing leaving the fabric and bottom of the skirt exposed. The one thing that I really wanted to explore was the floor and wall connection and the unevenness.

From the beginning, several issues on the slide that was noticeable and needed to be corrected was the top left corner of the wall ‘leaning’ and the rear of the slide not pulling in as flush as in the front. With other maintenance, I was able to correct the slide timing or alignment but not the leaning. It was my belief from the beginning that the leaning was a result of the prior skirt repair and the way it was taken apart and put back together. Everything possible short of having the roof fall off was disconnected or moved and with a jack under that corner, wasn’t able to move it. Decided short of cutting ‘stuff’ up, it was in the best interest to secure everything and live with the problem.


The one thing that tied the front and rear skirt together was the plastic trim that’s installed at the bottom of the skirts and within the wheel well. This trim is installed on older units and don’t know when it changed. The situation the bottom trim created was forming a bowl that allowed moisture to collect and not drain away. On my unit this trim had been removed from the rear of the wheel well back during the skirt repair the dealer made. Forward of that, the original trim is still installed. This has been discussed on the forum as a major reason for skirt damage due to moisture.
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During one of the discussions on this issue, ‘wrongway’ wrote: November 14, 2007

On the slide out room rams, what has happened is that a Plastic track was installed on the bottom of the slide out wall. Water has entered into the track and the wood structure that was put in there has absorbed the water and caused it to crumble. The ram has a bolt that is attached to throw the bottom of the slide out wall and into the plate on the face of the ram. You will need to remove interior underbelly material sheeting the lower Plastic track and the aluminum extrusion on the bottom side and then determine the damage that is created.

We rebuild and replace the materials with treaded lumber so that the water absorption does not accrue again. Replace the area with a new bolt, place the materials back in place and replace the plastic track, but first we drill 3/8" holes in the track to allow water to run away instead of setting there.

This was the total DISCUSSION.
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I modified mine by drilling 1/4 inch holes every 6 inches to allow for moisture to drain if necessary and for venting. Believe this trim to be a primary cause of the failure of both skirts. Even though there was no moisture present, damage to the 2 by material that formed the front of the fender was not near the bottom and gray staining was visible on the fender framing, this indicates prior moisture.

In my opinion there are two ways for moisture to get within the trim. If not properly caulked, the outside aluminum trim could lead to this moisture problem and the other side of the track that is within the backside of the skirt is the second place I would suspect moisture to have access. I view this as an ’open wheel well’, at least on my unit. Any and everything that comes off the wheels could be applied to the inside of the skirt. I found that the edge lip, of the track, on my unit wasn’t caulked. It is now.

A trim piece I use a lot for various projects is called WALL MOULDING, it is a product that is available at Lowes or HD and is used to frame and hang suspended ceilings. It’s the wall section that forms the lip or ‘L’ the panels sit on. Its light in weight provides a good edge and is cheap. I used it on the bottom inside of the rear skirt.

Finally I replaced the three sections of trim with a single section that required a vinyl insert and hidden screws. This will match the other trim on the unit and makes it not as noticeable. So don’t look at it! It’s hidden.

Post # 24__Caulk and trim: New trim and vinyl insert….will be the next post. It will cover the usual way the vinyl trim is installed and a different approach to installing this 12 ft section of trim.

Hope something helped.