1.__Restoration 101:

Well, not really. The intent I hope is to share my thoughts, ideals and past experiences working on RVs, and currently my Excel with others. Adding a magnet to a shower door doesn’t qualify as restoration, but did add to my quality of life, as my elbows aren’t hitting the shower walls any longer. Part of what I’ll post will be little upgrade/nice to add items and others will be caulking/sealing and currently compartment doors. I don’t claim to know everything and find myself learning something new everyday. There’s a lot of experience on this Forum and I’m flattered and nervous that I would be asked to do a Topic of this sort.

My Excel is a 2001 RLE Limited. I purchased it the end of June 2007 from a local dealer.
As the unit was longer and older than we had been looking for, we purchased it based on the quality and condition of the unit. For being 7 model years old, it seemed current and in like new condition on the inside. The exterior needed a gooood cleaning and waxing, overall maintenance was average, the tires were out of age, the main awning shorter and would not retract on its own and the front Northern Breeze fan would raise but the fan didn’t function. Plus the usual things one might find on a unit of its age. The dealer replaced the slide out covers and made a repair to the sofa/dinette slide as it wouldn’t retrack properly due to bad wood at the rear ram.

Seven months later, I’m tinkering and making repairs. I like doing the little upgrades as much as anything, because their low cost and functional and in most cases needed and make life easier. Have been discovering and doing the others as they come along or making ‘that list’. Have repaired the ‘running’ gear, repacked bearing and minor brake maintenance, new ‘G’ tires, shocks, etc and have not yet painted my Pin box.

My main concerns at the moment are the area above the entry door for moisture and the sofa/dinette slide that the dealer repaired. Then there’s the compartment doors and with warmer weather, caulking and sealing.

Haven’t had the plumbing leaks others have had. Find as I develop a History with the unit, I’m sorting things out that need the attention that my prior didn’t and in time will develop the maintenance checklist for my Excel. I agree with what Tom said in Best Practices_____I "logged" almost all things! Not all a bad habit. Drives Ms. Donna a bit crazy. _____can’t believe I still quote him. Having a good record of what you do to your unit is important. As I haven’t had one for mine, I pay attention to what others are commenting on and check my unit out. In a since, your history could be mine and in some cases its not.

Have noticed that there have been upgrades and improvements to the Excel since mine was built, that’s good and shows progress. We learn by what we do.

My intent is not to have a new or perfect unit, only as close as I can, after all is maintenance ever finished. The graphics and gel coat shows the age of a 7 yr old and the Pin box stills needs painting. Just hope some day in the near future when I pull into a campground heads will turn, not because I ran over the street sign while turning the corner but because they were looking at my unit.

Would I still buy the unit today? Possibility. After all I was looking for a good quality unit. Buying a used unit, it would be rare to not fine a cut or bruise someplace. Maybe several. Just have to sort them out and work on what I can. As has been said before, some problems we experience on our Excel’s are also problems other brands have also.

If the projects and work I do on my unit can help or inform others I am happy to share what I’ve learned. Might not always be the best but it works for me at the time and always willing to learn new things.. Like to think everyday is a new learning experience.

I’ll try an not make it boring.

Working on the Post for the repair of the compartment doors, three complete. Might be a little long so figuring out the format I’ll use. With spring approaching, will post what I’ve learned from caulking/sealing parts of my unit in Jan.


Thought I would share what the ‘Beast’ looks like.

Chris

To reduce the number of posts, making it easier to sort the information, I would prefer you not post directly to this topic but communicate with Chris through a new topic or P/M with your questions and/or comments. Thanks, John

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2.__Subject: rebuilding the compartment doors

If you have been following my post on Compartment Doors, what started out as a project to replace the inner aluminum liner has become one of rebuilding the doors. Because the inner aluminum panel had corrosion on the panel and light staining at the bottom of several door frames, my thoughts were to remove the inner trim ring and exchange the panel with a new one.

What was discovered was the first door I checked, curbside main compartment, was in bad condition. The interior panels were wet to damp and deteriorated to the point of separating. I then checked the exterior condition of the remaining doors and determined that at least all but one would have to be inspected at the least or repaired. This is based on the visual presence of corrosion on some of the panels and /or brown staining at the bottom of the doors or on the doors frame.

This is the first in several posts on the rebuilt of the compartment doors on my Excel. Pages 1 to 17 of this post will complete four of the doors. The curbside main storage, the roadside main storage, the Utility compartment and a compartment door just forward of the wheel well. The thing that made them different was how you had to deal with the inner panel removal, as they mostly were different but the same.

A follow up post to page #4, Tools and materials, will be completed and posted. There was a lot of information to include, such as links to materials, etc to try and include in this posting. What I tried to do, to make this a project that can be completed by someone without a HD in there garage, was to use tools that might be found in a ‘handyman’s’ garage/shop.

I presently have the photos and layout completed, no text yet, for pages 18 to 24. This will include preparing the units door frame opening to install the door and caulking and sealing the frame to sidewall.

As I complete the remaining doors, I will post information on those if I find that it would be helpful. I will post them starting as page 25 to keep them in sequence.
_____________________________________________________________________________________

The project wasn’t that bad to do. Too much thinking initially to work out a process and flow and getting the materials that would be needed. I decided to repair both main compartment doors at the same time. This was a good thing, as it allowed me to determine the cause of the door failure. Believe this to be the seam at the top of the door frame and the major cause, the latch/handle the opens the compartment door.
The utility and forward compartment doors were in work or completed at the same time. The compartment door that was initially posted about will be done next.

One thing I can say is that you don’t know what to expect when you start. Two were very easy to take the inner panels out, one allowed the material down to the ply’s next to the fiberglass panel to be removed easily and one a little more difficult. I found that there wasn’t anything to be saved. Once the inner panels get wet, it would be next to impossible to dry them without some sort of ventilation. As you can see, other than the two drain holes in the bottom, the doors are basically sealed. It was been my experience dealing with stick builds’, that once plywood type material gets wet, it will wick moisture throughout the panel before it starts to drip off if it isn’t allowed to dry.

Things that I modified/added to the doors while rebuilding was to install vents in the doors, added two additional drain holes at the bottom of the doors and using a metal tape, sealed the frame seam on the panel. Might be overkill, but while I’m there can’t hurt. Will make the panel’s breath/vent and drain better if moisture was to enter the area again. If someone decides to take on this project, it could de done without the vents, simply use a full foam blank between the wood plies.

Several notes to pass on. When working on the doors, I had them on a soft material; this will reduce the chances of damaging the finish. When drilling through the panels, use a backer under the panel to reduce breakout on the other side. I used two types of adhesives, one a spray and one a brush on. Found the brush on ate my first set of foam panels!!! Found the spray to be very strong and faster in setting the panels. As you work to remove the inner panels, use caution not to apply to much pressure as you get closer to the lower fiberglass panel.

Boy, this is long already. Will add whatever I forget in a latter post. The pages will guide you through the process. Said I would try and not make it boring, didn’t say I wouldn’t make it long.













































Hope something helped.
Chris

To reduce the number of posts, making it easier to sort the information, I would prefer you not post directly to this topic but communicate with Chris through a new topic or P/M with your questions and/or comments. Thanks, John

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3.__Subject: Rebuilding the compartment doors, Page 4

This is information that was not included in the prior post.





When I thought about how to approach this project, I decided to make it one that most would be able to complete. That meaning, tools that a homeowner or handyman might have in the garage or would be able to purchase at a reasonable price and then use on other projects. Also, materials that would be available at either The Home Depot or Lowes.

Items in the photo:
Sources: Home Depot (HD) Lowes (L) Wal-Mart (W)

Tools:
1. Jig or saber saw. Used a fine blade for the fiberglass and a medium cut for the panels and cutting to size.
2. 3/8” drill. For the latch/handle, a 1 1/8” hole saw bit. For the vent, a 2 1/8” hole saw bit. A step bit was used to enlarge the drain holes. Plus a varity of bits for removing the rivets and drilling the latch screw holes.
3. A pad and belt sanders. Used to sand the edges of the panel blank after using the belt sander to shape the panels to size/fit. A 60 grit belt was used.
4. A laminate roller was used to roll the panels just glued. This will aid in making a better bond between the panels. (HD) (L)
5. Rubber mallet, not shown. Like the not marring of the work surface the mallet provides. Used for installing the trim ring. (HD) (L)
6 . Various scrapes, a 5-in-One tool and razor knife. (HD) (L) (W)

Tapes:
1. BLUE PAINTERS TAPE, like the fact that it releases easily and after several days does not leave an adhesive feel that must be removed. (HD) (L) (W)
2. METAL FOIL TAPE, I carry it also in my repair kit. Has a strong adhesive but can be removed without having a tacky residue and its waterproof. Rubbing it after installing will smooth the tape and set the adhesive. (HD) (L)

Adhesives:
1. Wilsonart 600, or LIKE PRODUCT, is a brush on laminate adhesive that was used between the wood and fiberglass panel. It could be used for all areas except the foam filler panel. Disadvantage was the extended setup time before jointing the panels together due to the humidity in our area at the time. (HD) (L)
2. 3M Hi Strength 90 SPRAY ADHESIVE. Must be used with the foam panels. Spray on, wait a minute and set panels. Worked very well. One spray can will do three doors. (HD) $12.99

Sealants and Caulk: (HD) (L)
1. GE SILICONE II, white. Used to caulk and seal the door frame to wall joint on the 5th.
2. DAP's Elastomeric Latex Sealant, white. Like the fact it’s water cleanup and provides a good seal. In December, conducted a test with several types of caulk/sealant and found it had a look and feel of Dicor’s sealant when applying a small to 1/4” bead.

Lubricant: JIG-A-LOO for the latch/handle and hinges. (W)


Additional items:
1. MinWax WOOD HARDENER. Used to harden soft wood fibers and stabilize the wood within the panels. (HD)
2. White VENT CAPS. (HD)
3. Stainless hardware. As I felt the major damage to the doors was a result of the latch/handle and moisture entering as the screw began to loosen, I decided to use #10-32 screws. They were 2 inch long screws, with a plastic washer, stainless washer, a nut and acorn nut to fasten the latch/handle to door. A lock nut could be used but the screw would have to be cut to keep it from extending into the compartment. Liked the look with the acorn. (HD) (L)

Plywood and Foam:
1. Moisture Resistant Lauan. Sold in 4’x 8’ sheets, 1/4” thick. Will require 2 sheets to rebuild all the doors on my unit. Two panels would be required for each door.
(HD) part # 492-930 $11.88 each (L) part # 12549
2. FIBERGLASS inner panel. Sold in 4’ x 8’ sheets. One looks to complete all the doors.
(HD) part # 121-586 $29.97 (L) part #8566 model 77096
3. DOW STYROFOAM, inner panel. Sold in 4’ x 8’ sheets, 3/4” thick. Will need two sheets as the adhesive damaged the one panel. The foam has a thin sheet film covering the foam. Do not remove; helps protect the foam from the adhesive. Note: 1/2" sheet used as exmple.
(HD) did not carry this item. (L) part # 14545 $14.99

In my area, Lowes carried all three of the above materials, Home Depot didn't carry the same type styrofoam. Most of the purchases were made at HD, its closer to home.

I determined that the average depth of about 1 1/4” was needed to fill the frame after the inner panels were removed. With the materials above, it gave a nice fit with the trim ring installed. The one door that I took down to fiberglass, I used a bead of DAPs below the ring for a better look/fit.

Hope something helped,
Chris

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4.__Subject: rebuilding the compartment doors, Part 2.

This is the second and final Post on the compartment doors. They have been either rebuilt or checked and modified. The propane and electrical/jack control compartment doors didn’t show any signs of water damage, life being what it is, I won’t complain. I simply added the foil tape to the top frame seam, caulked beneath the rubber gasket, drilled extra drain holes and replaced the screws on the latch/handle with screws that went through the door with nuts. Still work but so much simpler.

I stated in the first Post, that once the inner panels get wet, it would be hard for them to dry out. Well, have to correct that, at least on one door. The inner panels of the door on page 19 had water intrusion at some point. When the aluminum panel was removed, it was completely dry inside. It showed no water damage to the top, only at the latch/handle area.

Can say it was an interesting project. Found two doors the same and all of them different than the next in what was required to make the repairs. As with any project we do, it can sometimes flow over into other areas. This one included compounding and waxing the compartment doors and frames and caulking the frame/sidewall areas. What a differences in appearance new caulk makes.

Page 20, Caulking and sealing materials will be posted in a few days.

I didn’t include at this time the materials and routine I used when compounding and waxing the compartment doors. Might add the materials as a future post. I didn’t realize all the different things I use for projects like caulking/sealing or compound/waxing until I gathered them up for a ‘group photo’.

Having been using tape on the majority of my caulking/sealing projects since my Navy days. We were required to do it on exterior sealed hatches and access areas; I liked the look and have been using it since. Might seem like a lot of work but once I developed a routine it goes quickly. Depending on the amount of caulk I apply, it can have a feathered edge or have a slight ridge once the tape is removed. After initially smoothing out the bead of caulk, I wipe the excess from my finger onto a paper towel; I will dip the finger into the small bottle of spirits to do any additional smoothing or cleanup on the caulk that needs to be made. The spirits acts like a lube that keeps the silicone from sticking as easily to the finger, it dries fairly quickly and removes the excess silicone. Plus I haven’t noticed a change to the waxed finished when I’m through.

Find the silicone has a ‘surface set’ fairly quickly and doesn’t give a lot of play time so needed to do the job and get off. When removing the tape, I allow the silicone a minute or two to set up, and slowly lift with a slight angle toward the caulk. The paper towels that I used with mineral spirits, I drop into a small bucket of soap/water. When the project is complete, I drain the water and put them in the trash with the tape and other waste items.

The doors are hung after the silicone has set for several hours. I install the center screw first, then the remaining two. Rivet size is 1/8” by 1/4" in length. Did find that some of the screws for the hinges and frame indicated water had entered at the screw area as they showed a rusty appearance. Believe this caused by the prior caulking or lack of proper seal. Will replace the screws when a good replacement is found.

Hope something helped.
Chris
























To reduce the number of posts, making it easier to sort the information, I would prefer you not post directly to this topic but communicate with Chris through a new topic or P/M with your questions and/or comments. Thanks, John

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5.__Subject: page 20, caulking and sealing materials

I have found the way I approached the Excel to be different than my prior unit. I would guess that having the prior for so many years that I had a maintenance routine I followed and it was up to date and current. Depending on the season, Caulking and Sealing was one that made the maintenance list in the spring and fall. Usually not much of a task, inspect and touchup/replace as needed.

Find myself with the task of setting a base point. That base I decided would start with the removal and replacement of all the caulk/sealant on the unit. The exception being the majority of the Dicor sealant that’s on the roof. Except for a few areas have found it to be in good to excellent condition with a cleaning or topcoat as required.

The Silicone on the other hand looks fresh, 7 years old or something in between. Knowing the importance of keeping the unit water tight and the discussions that have been had of water leaks; this is the approach I decided to take. I have found several areas that have had water intrusion when I bought the unit. The compartment doors for one and an area between the entry door and sofa/dinette slide for another. As had been mentioned, there are screws that appear rusted when removed. Will be honest and say that this is not a problem that Excel has alone as I chased problems in my other unit as well. Sure we all have. For me it’s learning a new-to-me unit and its ‘weak’ areas and paying attention to them. The TOP of my list is the Awning/Gutter/Trim that joins the roof to side wall and the slide Gutter/Trim. Plus there is anything that’s ‘horizontal’. Mine is one of those units that have the foam beneath the trim.

In December I started testing several caulk/sealants. Wanted to see if there was another product I could use to replace the silicone as a sealant of choice. I presently use a variety of DAP products in the repair of stick builds, all water based latex that provide a good seal and easy water cleanup. As the housing industry moves toward more environmentally sensitive materials, thought I would look for other products to seal the 5th.

Ran 12 inch test strips of GE Silicone in both clear and white, several DAP products and Dicor’s sealant. Each product was applied in 1/4”, 1/8” and thin bead widths. I let the products set for a week before checking for adhesion, flow/leveling and how well it withstood the environment, meaning dirt/water and washing.

Found that using the GE SILICONE II and DICOR LAP SEALANT was the first choices to use. The DAP products had the look and feel of Dicor without the self leveling and in some cases didn’t wash-up as well and return to a clean look like the silicone and Dicor. The initial shine/gloss of the cured product wasn’t as ‘bright’ as the silicone. Liked the DAP'S Dynaflex 230 latex as a sealant and will use it behind screws and in areas where Silicone and Dicor isn’t needed. Decided to use the white silicone rather than the clear as it had better ‘hiding’ when using around compartment doors frames or places where a gap exist.

Knowing that there might be a damp area that will need to be sealed at some point, experimented with a product from PL called ULTIMATE. It can be applied on damp/dry material and still give a good adhesion. I used the inner door panel from the Utility compartment which was still damp as the test piece. I wet it again with the water hose, let it stand for several minutes and wiped the surface clean. A test bead was applied and allowed to dry/cure. The bead cured and adhered to the panel. Did as advertised.









The materials I use:

The TOTE, as you would guess, this is how I carry it all. Have found it easier to leave it loaded all the time and keep it on a shelf in the workshop. Until I’ve completely caulked the Excel, will leave it that way. Believe it or not it all fits.

Paper TOWELS. I use a lot of these.

The BUCKET, depending on the task it hand, it will be filled with soapy water for cleaning, fresh water for rinsing or soapy water again to soak the paper towels that contain the mineral spirits. When I’m going to strip and caulk a larger area, like the roof and gutter trim, will hose wash the areas in advance.

HAND SPRAYER for water, use for rinsing some areas that have been washed. Useful for inside doors, trim and smaller areas.

Citrus or 409 CLEANERS. Use 409 regularly and the Citrus for the heavy cleaning.

MINERAL SPIRITS. Found it easily removed just applied silicone. Used as a lubricant when smoothing out the ‘bead’. Found it had no effects on the painted surfaces and no noticeable effects on areas just waxed. If using a product for the first time, check it in a small area before use.

GOO GONE, it aided in the removal of cured silicone. Does not dissolve it, just loosens it. Had not noticed any effects on the painted or waxed surfaces.

Denatured ALCOHOL, I use it as the final wipe before applying the caulk/sealant.

SUNNY D containers. Small durable containers for storing the mineral spirits, Goo Gone and alcohol that I keep in the tote. Work from these containers and refill as needed. Also carry similar containers of spirits and alcohol in my maintenance/repair kit for the 5th.

The tools and other items speak for themselves. Mostly used plastic scrapers, had to freshen up the edge several times to keep them sharp as they will dull with use. All the metal tools, I dulled the edges before using.



Life being what it is…..have had over 3 inches of rain today and more on the way.

Hope something helped.

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6.__Subject: TESTING FOR 12 VOLT POWER

This Post might not be as glamorous as caulking and sealing but should still qualify as a renovation project because of the changes and improvements that were made.

This is also a Post that I’ve owed the Chief for at least the past 4 months, possibly longer but don’t want to seem as if I’m that BAD. At the time I didn’t quite understand posting pictures and started working on the drawing below to help explain the connections. Well I think I have the picture thing down and just have to stop playing with the drawing to make it better and post it. So here it is.

One of the first projects I completed was the storage compartments. Basically because ‘all that stuff I removed from my prior unit’ had to be put somewhere. Besides organizing the storage containers, wiring the 12 volt system was the other top of the list project. Was familiar with the changes I wanted to make as I wired my prior the same way.

It consists of a Perko battery switch, a DC voltage outlet and a 12v plug in meter. This switch was used to allow the use of a second battery bank, which consists of a single deep cycle. As we don’t dry camp a lot, I just like having the extra battery for the security it provides. Plus the switch allows for testing the voltages on the unit. The battery is located in the front compartment under the shelf.

Figure 1 shows the location of all the equipment. The switch is in the top right, the outlet boxes, one 120vac and one 12vdc are mounted at the ‘drop down’ and I store the meter in a piece of 1” PVC tubing attached to the landing gear housing. I do not leave the meter plugged in except to read voltages. From this location, with the use of the switch and meter, I can read all the primary voltages of the 12v system.

Figure 2 shows the meter in use. Figure 3, on my unit, shows the input of the wire harness from the Tow Vehicle as it enters the connections to the 5th. The green wires are for ground. The two red wires with the fuses go to the front landing gear. They plus the 12v wire from the TV are connected to the input side of the ‘DC breaker’ that provides protection to the unit’s 12v system. On the left side of the wire bundle, the red, yellow, brown, etc wires can be seen. This is the wire harness that provides voltages to the exterior running, stop and turn signals. All lot of stuff happens in this small space, at least on my unit. The white fuse holder is for the overhead light and in fig 1; the white disc on the overhead is a smoke detector. I have one in each storage compartment that has 120vac or items that can ‘burn’. Just cheap insurance I hope to never use.

Figure 4 show the location of the converter, and the 12vdc breakers that provide protection to the systems on the 5th. Also shown are the ATS and a PG-30 for the generator setup. All this equipment is located on the front roadside wall of the ‘main’ storage compartment. All input voltages enter the breakers from the bottom. The battery and TV are connected on the bottom left and the converter voltage at the center connection. The outputs are connected to the 12vdc fuse panel and assume the slide motors etc. Haven’t looked at that as of yet.










Testing for 12 volt power: Plug in the meter.


Without 120vac connected, place the battery switch in positions #1 and then #2 and note the voltages. You should be reading the state of charge of each of the battery banks. You can also isolate the batteries from the system draw by placing the switch in the OFF position and read the voltage at the battery.

With the TV connected and running, position the switch to the OFF position, this will be the input voltage from the TV. If no voltage is read, use a meter and check the input side of the dc breaker that was discussed in Fig. 3. If the correct voltage is present, check the output of the breaker. If the voltage reads 0v the breaker is open. If there is 0v at the input, check the plug connection at the TV and if necessary Pin 4 on the TV's plug.

The voltage from my TV will read between 13.8vdc to over 14.0vdc depending of the TV’s state of charge. It appears that the output voltage from the alternator is more influenced by the TV batteries than those from the 5th. When I have read the input voltages from the TV with the switch in one of the battery positions, it will read about .5v less than without the battery connected. Guess normal voltage drop but have normally had over 13.2v on the battery reading.

With the unit connected to shore power and the TV not connected, with the switch in the OFF position, it will read the ‘true’ output of the converter (13.5vdc). With the switch in either of the battery positions, it will read 13.5v if in the normal mode.

With the dc outlet connected to the output side of the switch, listed as common, I can do a quick check of all the primary voltage inputs on the unit. It will help determine which system is bad or weak and allow me to respond quicker to the problem.

An alternative to this setup is to connect a 12vdc outlet (or using a handheld meter) to the input or output side of the unit’s 12dc breaker in Figure 3. This would allow all the same readings to be had, just not the isolation of equipment. As can be seen in the drawing, the TV input, battery and converter all connect to the same points and with 12v power on the system, voltages can be read at any point. I just find reading them where I do to be more convenient.

If all my voltages are normal and I don’t have power to one system on the unit, I would look at a fuse in the 12vdc fuse panel. If more than one system if bad, would look for what they have in common. Find that not all problems are as they appear. I remember a Post several months ago where everything was good except when using battery power. After all the on-line troubleshooting, it was the battery connections that were at fault. The voltages read normal but failed to pass a load properly because of corrosion between the post and terminal. Sometimes it’s the simple things we overlook and catch us in the end.

Equipment used:

PERKO BATTERY SWITCH
12 VOLT DC OUTLET. Purchased a grey blank plate from HD along with the 120vac outlet and plate. As I already had the outlet, drilled a hole in the blank cover and used it for the dc outlet. This way the two cover plates matched. :-)
BOX USED FOR OUTLET
12 VOLT METER. I purchased my meter from Wal Mart.


Hope something helped.
Chris

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7.__Subject: Door prop/holder for Electrical Compartment

This was initally Posted in 'Best Practices'. I made a few changes during the rebuild of the compartment doors. On this door, I cut and installed an aluminum panel, that is placed beneath the eyelet. This will reduce the paint rub that was occuring.

I also painted the Rod yellow for more visiblilty. The Rod is an extra awning rod I had, cut to 22.5". The length was determined by the bedroom slide being open and the outside edge of the door being high enough that my forehead didn't hit the door. At least as often.

The door will need to be lowered to close the bedroom slide. The unit came equiped with a plastic/nylon compression fastener that would hold this as well as other doors open. They had deteriorated and being replaced with a 'Bullet' latch. As I wanted to have something to hold the door open with the slide extended, this was my best choice.

Hope something helped,
Chris

ATTWOOD PAD EYELET
AWNING PULL ROD
END CAPS Used to dress ends of Rod
BULLET LATCH

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8.__Subject: Prep of screw hardware.

This is the start of a project yet to start, it’s replacing the exterior screws.

On first thought one would say I must be nuts. Once you get past that thought, it’s not that difficult a project once it’s laid out and completed in steps that’s manageable. Plus it needs to be done if I’m going to increase the appearance of the exterior.

The first step of this project was to obtain the screws that I wanted to use. Whether from an RV dealer, Home Depot or a company that deals is fasteners they had to be white. Would have preferred what is called a square drive head, presently used on the unit, but could not find them in Stainless steel, which was my second requirement. Because one of the reasons I’m replacing the screws is because of rust, prefer not to deal with it twice.

The screws I choose were from FASTENAL. They are a national company, had a selection of Stainless screws that would complete the project and found their prices cheaper than other sources I checked. Ended up with a ‘Philips’ head, just have to use new drive bits and check the clutch on the driver to help prevent damaging the heads when inserting the screw.

One thing I had to do to start the project was paint the screws. As they say, Stainless is not white so had to come up with a system for painting. Ended up using sections of the blue foam that was left over from the compartment doors. Sized the sections that allowed a grid pattern to be laid out for painting ‘bout 100 screws at a time. As I'm not ready to start is project, the screws are being painted and allowed to 'cure' before use. IMO the longer the screws set initially after painting, the harder its surface will be and drive in with less damage to the painted surface. Hopefully anyway.

Applied the primer in several thin coats ensuring proper coverage, sprayed from different angles and directions. The topcoat was applied the same way over several days with the final coat applied medium to heavy. After several weeks to dry in place they were removed and placed in containers ready for use. Very easy process, took longer to set the screws in place than to paint. Also took longer to shake the can to ensure proper mix than to spray the individual layers/coats.

Chose RUST-OLEUM Professional spray paint in White and used their PAINTERS CHOICE primer in white. The Professional series had a primer but only in ‘rust’ and gray. Choice the Painter Choice because of the color and used it in past projects and pleased with the results.

When I mentioned completing the project in manageable steps, this is smaller projects within the larger one. Like replacing the exterior screws on the large slide. Then the ‘flat head’ screws on the same slide. If I break it down to completing the slides, then the compartment doors followed by the door hardware screws, etc it becomes manageable and can be completed as time permits.

Several side projects that will be completed at the same time will be removing the screws, every other one as I don’t want anything to fall off, checking the area for present/past moisture, compounding and waxing the frame/glass area, and applying a sealant within the opening before installing the new screws. Will Post the procedures I use in a follow-up Post.

Another project or problem that will be addressed is the fiberglass. When the old door latch hardware is removed, there is this shiny button left that’s noticeable on the surface. Compounding does not remove the shine, only makes it worse. Will possibly wet sand the area and finish before installing screws or use a MARINE-TEX putty to fill, sand and finish the area. Will try this in an out of the way area and see if this is the way I go. Would be nice not to have all those extra screws showing.

______________________________________________________________________________________________

Should be able to check Fastenal's site to get local dealer location if needed.

FASTENAL COMPANY

Part # Description $ per 100

1173018 # 8 x 1” Flathead Philips $8.23
1173020 # 8 x 1 1/4" Flathead Philips $9.96**

1172916 # 8 x 3/4" Pan head Philips $8.23
1172918 # 8 x 1” Pan head Philips $9.52**
1172920 # 8 x 1 1/4" Pan head Philips $10.83**
1172922 # 8 x 1 1/2" Pan head Philips $12.11** (note 1)

**used on project, other as reference and price if needed in future.

note 1: HD price for # 8 x 1 1/2" zinc screws per 100 was $5.83.

Haven't counted the exact amount of a specific screw that will be used, but do not expect it to exceed 100.


Hope something helped.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Workshop,

9.__Subject: Fiberglass and Gel coat repair, how much should I do….

It’s all a matter of what the problem is. A major hole in the end cap or a rip down the side of the unit, don’t think so. Its time to break out the patch kits I carry to make it water tight until a repair can be made. A screw or nick repair that’s another story. That calls for an assessment of the problem, what the repair or project will consist of and what the end result will look like or affect it will have when finished.

In the prior Topic I mentioned replacing the exterior screws on the Excel. That project is pretty straight forward except when it comes to dealing with those on the fiberglass where the existing door ‘hold open’ hardware is/was installed. Do I cleanup and install screws back into the holes or use the Marine-Tex product for a repair to achieve a smooth surface. Still have to deal with the difference in the shine/finish which can only be address by wet sanding and compounding. Compounding alone will not correct the difference, only makes the difference in shine more noticeable.

When I purchased the unit, the prior had installed a ‘Level Master’ on the front nose cap. It had been replaced and repositioned several times as there were at least 7 screw holes when the level was removed. Boy what a sight. I had two choices, replace the level and mount with a new one or make a repair and relocate the level. I liked the look of it not being in that position so I chose to make a repair and mounted the new ‘Level Master’ on the bottom of the front cap as posted in ‘Best Practices.

Most of the holes were ’clean’, meaning there was minor damage around the screw holes. This damage can result from initially drilling a hole that is too small for the screw and when the screw is installed it causes minor cracking or chipping as the screw is driven in. I used a COUNTERSINK bit to slightly enlarge the opening of each of the holes. Use caution doing this, the purpose is to create a bevel and not to enlarge the bottom of the hole unless it’s required for the repair. The beveled surface will give the Marine-Tex or other resin patch more surface area to adhere to.

I will wet sand the area to provide a level surface to work with. Feel its better to start out level now, that way when I’m sanding the resin patch it’s the only thing that’s being sanded and smoothed. Will try and make this sanded area as small a footprint as possible as a larger area will be wet sanded when the patch is being leveled and smoothed.

The Marine-Tex putty provided a very good repair. With my unit being 7 years old, the shades are slightly different, but if not looking, it’s not noticeable. As with any resin and hardener, the set up time will vary with the temperature and humidity. Used a 600 grit wet paper on a small sanding block to take off the high peaks before changing to higher grade adrasive. The finer the grit the easier the compounding and polishing will be. When I compound, depending on the condition of the surface, I will also use different levels of compounding materials. Usually start out with course/heavy and end up with a very fine compound.

The other choice. When rebuilding the compartment doors I had screw holes to deal with when the ‘door’ hold open hardware was removed. After that all important assessment, decided to replace the screws that were in the door. Found the hole damage was to great to repair with the Marine-Tex. There was slight cracking and chipping that would have been visual after the repair, decided to install new painted screws in those areas. This leaves the screws left from the hardware on the other surfaces of the unit when the hardware is removed. Will try one and see what happens.

It had been mentioned before on the Forum about using wet sanding to bring back the shine on the gel coat. Feel this could be an extreme procedure to use in large areas and the risk of exchanging scratches for oxidation is too great for me. It could take a lot of time between wet sanding, compounding and waxing/polishing. Believe this is a do-able project for small to medium projects if needed and choices had to be made.

When I purchased my unit, the vent over shower had a metal body that was rusted to the extent it affected the fiberglass surrounding it. When the vent was replaced, the area was wet sanded to remove the rust that had stained the gel coat. Compounding would not remove these stains. Found using a 1000 grit paper followed by 2500 grit removed the stains easily. The area was compounded and waxed before the new vent was installed. One thing to remember when wet sanding…..a lot of compounding may be required to bring back the shine.

Not a pro by any means when it comes to wet sanding fiberglass. Know enough to keep myself out of trouble. Wood is another story. Don’t weld either. I use a lot of water and the highest grit paper that will do the job I’m attempting.

Found there are few articles or information available on the web that deal with RV gel coat and fiberglass repair and finishing when dealing with gel coats. It’s simple to find information on boats but must be Google-ing in the wrong places. Guess the RV industry hasn’t caught up. Here’s a site on WET SANDING that’ from the auto industry. Deals with wet sanding clear coats and finishes but believe the basic information can apply to wet sanding the gel coat on a smaller project.

The cross section of the fiberglass panel shown is from the bottom of the rear end cap on my unit. This section was removed from underneath the ‘bumper’ to install a custom hitch. As you can see, the gel coat is not very thick. Caution should always be used when working on the gel coat and fiberglass.





Here’s a link to materials I use:

MARINE-TEX PUTTY
3M IMPERIAL WET or DRY PAPER: I have 100 to 2500 grits on the shelf. Use 600 grit and higher on the fiberglass.
RUBBER SANDING BLOCK: have several loaded with different grit levels.
HAND SANDER: designed for drywall use. Use as a larger sanding pad. Helps prevent scratches and provides a larger surface area.

Usual assortment of items: use a hand sprayer to keep the area wet for small areas and not using a water hose or bucket. The sprayer allows misting the work area while sanding on vertical surfaces. Paper towels are used for cleanup and wiping the area to check progress.




Hope something helped.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Workshop,

10.__Subject: Heating System Overview of a 2001

One would think that with winter over for most of us, the last thing I would post would be on the heating system on my unit.

The heating system and components are pretty straight forward. When I mention straight, most of the components are in a straight line or slightly off center. Tom pointed that out to me and sure enought they are. He mentioned it performs better that way and would have to agree.

The post has two drawings and eight photos. The first drawing provides an overview of the system and their location. The second drawing is a simplified section view that helps explain what the heater is doing and where the air is going. Not drawn to scale....but only so much space.

There are two metal ducts on my unit. Recently they have been mentioned when discussing noises in the floor movement. My unit with the enclosed bath has the smaller duct running front to rear, if used on the open bath would guess it runs side to side. Just not sure.

There are five flex ducts that's used to connect the discharges of the furnace to the metal ducts and in one case to the vent at the lower step in the living area. Depending on your units size and layout, you might have more or less than mine. But believe that the metal ducts would be used to distribute the majority of the air and use flex to reach other areas.

Each metal duct has one additional discharge hole. This discharge is used to heat the basement and the mid-storage compartment when the furnace is operating. Besides the air flow from the returning air to the furnance, this discharge would be the major source of heat for the water and waste tanks.

Had posted: Air access through frame openings in 'Best Practices'. How well the furnace operates can be affected by the air it has to condition. Living in Florida, except for a few days, we usually use a small electric heater in the living area and use the gas furnace to take the chill off as needed. Just be careful if closing off vents and blocking the air return, the heater needs a certain static pressure to operate correctly. Check your manual if not sure. Believe it is safer to restrict some airflow at the discharge than the returning air. If the furnace doesn't get the warm air from the living area....it will pull the cold air from the basement and where it can.

Photos are numbered and correspond to their location on the Simplified Section View.


Hope something helped.

Chris


ATWOOD MOBIL PRODUCTS
ATWOOD'S 2007 TRAINING MANUAL Is a pdf file and large, will take a bit to open. Good information to me.
TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
FURNACE OPERATION VIDEO
ATWOOD INFORMATION NOTICES
COLEMAN THERMOSTAT
INSTALLING A HUNTER DIGITAL THERMOSTAT

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Workshop,