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Posted
I recently purchased a 97 Sea Breeze on a Ford chassis (18,000 lb, 460 v8). I drove the motorhome back from Florida to Arizona. Shocks were shot and I noticed some steering play. The interstates (mostly I10) were rutted or badly worn about 80% OF THE WAY, but when the road was smooth and there was no wind, she drove and tracked very well.
I have since replaced the shocks and steering damper (Bilsteins), new tires (BFG's), had the sway bar bushings replaced (poly) as well as the steering gear box rebuilt, four-wheel alignment. The shocks ride rough (to be exspected) but greatly improved body roll and wind handling. But I still have steering play (about 1/2" in rotation at the steering wheel) which greatly increases the effort (attention to the task) required to drive her, particularly since she seems to wander a bit (although I think that's mostly normal rut and wind-driven). In fact, it seems the coach is even more difficult to drive now than with the old worn-out shocks, etc. When I realize the coach is veering off line slightly, I must adjust the wheel to negate the steering play and then correct slightly in the other direction to return back toward the initial line. This almost always results in over-correct and another cycle of de-play and adjust and... annoying. This is our first motorhome but I've spoken to RV folks and read comments online of coaches 'driving like a car'... not this one. I've driven large U-Haul trucks that were easier to track.
Given the now tight steering box, and all down-stream steering components certified good (by two different shops), can anyone provide any insight as to where the steering play could be coming from? (Is there some sort of flexible link between the box and the steering wheel?) Also, does anyone have any knowledge of suggested alignment settings (tow is now at 1/8", don't know caster / camber settings) to provide optimum tracking and perhaps somehow counter the steering play?
Any help / suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I like the coach very much, but if I can't resolve the chassis steering and tracking issues, this motorhome will be gone.
 
Posts: 10 | Registered: February 17, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Picture of LVJ58
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When checking your steering problem, did they check for worn tie-rod ends and the link from your steering box to the rest of your steering linkage for worn parts?

Bilstein shocks, although great shocks, are not the most ideal shocks for the F53 front suspension. Most folks now use the Koni FSD shocks which provide a softer ride and seem to help improve directional stability.

I've also heard folks discuss toe-in as being very critical in eliminating wandering. You may also consider installing the Safe-T-Plus steering dampener on your coach.

Good Luck


Jim & SherrySeward
2000 Residency 3790 v10 w/tags
& Banks System
2003 Suzuki XL7
 
Posts: 486 | Location: Las Vegas, NV | Registered: July 13, 2000Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

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Was the box rebult properly? They may not have set the cross shaft adjustment properly or may have reused a marginally acceptable shaft when they rebuilt it. I would start with checking the rebuilt box then drag link, tierod ends, any universal joint between the steering wheel and the steering box and the coupling. The king pins should also be checked and then a front end alignment done with the coach loaded as you would have it when on a trip.


Neil V
2001 Winnebago Adventurer WFG35U
 
Posts: 1667 | Registered: November 28, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

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Check and make sure air pressure in front tires are correct.

Joe


www.anindianandagypsy.blogspot.com


Joe and Nancy
2002 34'DS Georgetown
Ford V-10
Towing 2004 Cavalier
 
Posts: 586 | Location: Traveling in the East | Registered: October 10, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

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Thanks for the comments folks. All good suggestions and generally all already checked / addressed. I'm actually working the shock situation with Bilstein.
The steering box seems very tight. Before its rebuild, with another person wiggling the steering wheel through the play (+- 1" then), the shaft into the steering box moved very visibly and the output shaft did not. Since the rebuild, wiggling the wheel through the play (now about 1/2"), the shaft into the box does not seem to move much at all (I can barely see it budge and have repeatedly asked the wife if she's moving the wheel and then watched her doing it). It seems there must be some movement or flexing above the steering box... perhaps a loose steering wheel or some sort of flexible or rubber coupling? Has anyone seen or heard of that? Has anyone pulled the trim on one of these to expose the steering wheel / shaft mating?
Also, again, does anyone have any specifics as to toe, caster, camber settings that worked well with this specific chassis?
 
Posts: 10 | Registered: February 17, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
"National RV Owner's Forum Member"

Picture of Richard S.
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You need to have your coach weighed, each corner is the best, but if you can't then front axil and rear axil and over all. Then adjust tire air pressure to match your load.If you do a search on this web site you will find this is a problem with all chassis makes. PS.Make sure your coach is loaded with fuel, water and cargo when you weigh it.


2007 Sea Breeze LX 8321 Ford Chassies
2004 Ford Ranger Edge
 
Posts: 213 | Location: El Cajon CA | Registered: May 16, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

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Just another thought. May not be a steering problem at all. Another vote for getting axle weights. If the front axle is too lightly loaded, you will experience all the symptoms you describe.... rough ride, wander and a disconnected feel in the steering.
 
Posts: 17 | Registered: June 18, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

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Thanks folks.
I'm working the issues on three fronts... front and rear loaded weights (no facility for four corners here in Tucson) plus BFG sending me detailed literature on tire pressure / weight recommendations, the repair shop and I are researching possible flex / play / looseness in steering components above the steering box, Bilstein working the shock issue.
Regardless, feel free to contribute any other suggestions.
 
Posts: 10 | Registered: February 17, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

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Tire pressure, steering box and steering shaft u-joint issues resolved, along with another alignment. Some improvement but not there yet. Thinking of springing for a Davis / Roadmaster TruTrac. Any suggestion where to get a good price (I'll install myself). So far, I've seen $395.99 at rvtoyoutlet.com ... much lower than CampingWorld but state "7-10 business days" (2 weeks?) to process order and they claim retail is $499 (my info per Roadmaster website backdata is $439).
 
Posts: 10 | Registered: February 17, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

Picture of jrcnlc
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It sounds to me with youre over correction that something tight ,king pins balljoints steering box.Steering box adj i found to adj screw down to snug then back out one an one half turns.have wheel streight ahead .count turns when tightening so you can returne to old setting if nessary. caster should be about 5deg positive.There is a flex coupling just out of box or u joint if ujoint frozen will do this. 1/2 in play at wheel is pretty good


99 ford f350 crewcab dually powerstroke auto. 2002 cameo f35ck3
 
Posts: 161 | Location: Butler PA | Registered: June 13, 2000Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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