Hi Jim,

You are right, it is the switch that turns off the cruise control when you hit the brake pedal. Regarding measuring the current, you may not get a reading as the cruise control won't work below some threshold road speed. I don't think you can run that fast. It should be around 35 mph, not sure of the actual on this though. I can't take mine out on the highway right now as it's tied up at the dock, we are living in it while we work away from home base. It's my second home with wheels. We live in Florida and when people ask if we have a Hurricane plan, I tell them yes and it has a wheel on each corner and goes brrrrm when you turn the key.

I haven't even tried to call any of the Ford dealerships, I know I will get the same answer as everyone else. Might be quicker if I take a trip to China and pick up the parts myself.

When I purchased our motorhome the cruise control did not work. A local mechanic found it was disconnected somewhere under the hood, plugged it in and it worked fine. In August while on the road we had a electrical burning smell coming from under the hood. A Ford dealer in CT did not find any problem. Now the heater control does not work and a good bump on the road shuts down the CC. Just recieved the Ford Recall notice and was wondering if this problem makes sense.

quote:

Originally posted by admiral34:
When I purchased our motorhome the cruise control did not work. A local mechanic found it was disconnected somewhere under the hood, plugged it in and it worked fine. In August while on the road we had a electrical burning smell coming from under the hood. A Ford dealer in CT did not find any problem. Now the heater control does not work and a good bump on the road shuts down the CC. Just recieved the Ford Recall notice and was wondering if this problem makes sense.

The cruise control on the Fords is supposed to be disconnected until the recall can be performed. That you did not loose your entire coach in a fire is something to be thankfull for. You most likely have just been the victim of a mechanic who has not kept up to date on his recall notices and has caused your damages through his lack of knowledge. He should be held liable for all your losses related to this.

I checked 2 local dealers yesterday. One said the middle of Dec. and the other said the middle of Nov. I'm still intrested in finding out how a fuse is going to stop a brake fluid leak.

terry..the fuse doesn't stop the leak..however,if the sensor does leak and shorts the electrical circuit, the fuse is supposed to cut the current before it can overheat and ignite the fluid..jim

TURABLE TERRY" You and I are paddling the same boat. The fuseable link is just going to act as a stopgap to a possible fire. IMPORTANT-Yes, but not a solution to an apparent problem of a greater magnitude it seems to me. I am finding it difficult to take Ford seriously on this matter. Except I understand they are most interested in limiting their liability. This is a band aid approach it appears to me. Only they do not have any band aids. I am being informed this problem has existed for a very long time. One fellow I know had his fuseable link put on two years ago. Like you, I am having trouble understanding this scenario. By the way Ford just told me yesterday, possibly Jan 08 now, for the fuseable link availability.

Admiral34 , Welcome to iRV2.com

Certainly I understand the purpose of the link. I guess Ford didn't want to go back and produce a switch that functions properly. I wonder if they are still using the same switch. If not, would the currently used switch work in our application? Or, mayhaps an aftermarket switch that is better?

quote:

Originally posted by Turrable Terry:
Certainly I understand the purpose of the link. I guess Ford didn't want to go back and produce a switch that functions properly. I wonder if they are still using the same switch. If not, would the currently used switch work in our application? Or, mayhaps an aftermarket switch that is better?

Lets face it Ford has a long history of creating fire hazards with many of their "Better Ideas". Most times it has takes a long drawn out court battle, many deaths and a court order to get them to do someting about it.

Have we forgotton when they tried to save money by having a cheaper ignition switch built to their own design instead of going with the proven one from Briggs and Stratton. How many cars, garages and homes were burnt down before they did anything about it?

How about the warm and fuzzy feeling you got from their power seats in the late eighties and early nineties when they caught fire?

Then there was the pop-up gas tank. To save mone on sheet metal they decided to use the top of the gase tank as the floor of the trunk so the tanks dropped into place from inside the car. In a rear end collision the tank would pop-up and split showering the back seat occupants with fuel before setting them on fire.

Although not fire related, remember when they tried to save money by putting even thinner safety belts in the back seats. It took a public expose of how the passengers in those cars were disemboweled in moderate crashes by the thinner cheaper belts before something was done about it.

Ford is doing something now about the Cruise Control problem that we may not feel is the optimum solution but at least it is something that will protect us and if we do it their way, still leaves them on the hook if it does not work as advertised.

Publicly they are mentioning just the switch however I have a feeling it probably goes deeper than that and a few other components are involved. Lets face it, a bad switch is hardly a new problem and does happen. Imagine if our cars all burst into flames every time a fan or brake light switch got worn out.

Just took my 1999 F53 Ford V10 class A motorhome chassis in for 05S28 recall after 6 week wait. Dealer had no info from Ford on details like fuse size or differences in pressure switch. They installed a new pressure switch 3L3T-9F924-AB-2075B (# was hard to read, small characters around base of switch, requiring mirror & bright light so I could have an error). Also installed was a short 2 conductor wiring harness 4W1T-14A411-P260R which is required as the new switch has a different connector than the original switch. There is no fuse in the harness, the wire type and gage looks like stranded copper wire, not a fusible link.

So it looks like it boils down to "is the new switch less likely to cause a fire than the original switch" as +12VDC is still present at the pressure switch 24/7 (Ford's solution). If anyone has any info on the new switch, I would appreciate hearing it.

I believe the best solution is to add a standard relay operated by the switch and powered from the +12V ignition signal with a 1/4A fuse in series (the relay requires 150mA). Comments anyone?