I was looking at this mount today at Costco.

When you push it back into place how does it lock to keep from coming back out?

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Originally posted by MonacoMama:

quote:

Certainly not to diss your/SacsTC's coach or the mods, but how comfortable is watching the tv when it's mounted waaaay up there and off to the side (as from sitting on the couches)? Does going to a bigger screen make it easier to watch? After a short while, I need to make an appointment with a chiropractor for my twisted-neck.

OOOOH... Guess I forgot to mention the "Articulating Arm". Notice how it can swing out so my "driver" can watch his favorite show while on the road!! It would also work where you want it in your atrium area since you can angle it to your viewing area or flat againt the wall while in "travel mode"

BZam...
I guess I need to post the photos..since you are not the only one who has asked...
What we have done is use a wide velcro strap help hold it back..along with some "super-industrial strength" velcro that is on the side frame...here are a few photos of the velcro strap...

Up over the board...



Through the bottom of arm bracket...


The backside of the strap tightened. I got to it through the opening that gives me access to the back side...
The strap was purchased at Home Depot.


MM

This is for AkTrek's question about putting sandpaper strips on the tops of the slides. I was thing about it and it would seem that it could be done easily when the slide is closed. Should not be hard to stand on a stool in the front of the coach or the bed in the back to reach the top of the slide.

Thats exactly what we did! It was a little skinny for the top clearance but it was doable. Thanks Dave!

Found added space under kitchen cabinets.

Remove vent and added a hinge and latch.

Added shelf 11x19

360 Siphon Vent Installation

I wasn’t in a hurry to install the two 360 Siphon vents I purchased until I reached up for a zip lock bag in our medicine cabinet and found it covered with water that was dripping down from the grey tank stack pipe in the upper right hand corner of the cabinet. Rain was blowing into the back of the vent and running down the outside of the stack pipe. The seal between the vent and stack was bad so it was also a source of fumes into the medicine cabinet and bathroom. Once the vent was removed, I plugged the stack with a paper towel to ensure nothing fell down into the tank (that might later jam the Sani-Con) when cutting the stack down for the lower profile 360 Siphon. Both Grey and Black tank vents were replaced. It took about one hour to replace one vent.

Upper right corner of medicine cabinet.


Original vent.


360 Siphon flange fit check.


Original screws used to secure 360 Siphon.


CC

Using the phone jacks for the HW50C Remote Display

There was just enough room next to the Power Transfer Switch to install the HW50C Surge Protector (and Power Monitor) as shown in the photo below.



The connector groupings of the Switch in the photo below are (L to R) generator power, shore power, and switch output. Due to cable constraints, the best solution was to electrically insert the HW50C between the switch and coach resulting in the ability to monitor both the generator and shore power even though there would be no surge protection for the switch.



I wanted to be able to view the remote display when driving to monitor generator loads, but yet be able to view the remote display in the dinette area to monitor the shore power when camped. The obvious solution was to use our idle phone jacks because we only use cell phones when on the road. However, the HW50C manual states:

“The telephone type cable that connects from the EMS control box to the remote panel is designed specifically for the EMS. Therefore do not use store purchased cable, which will result in the EMS not to function, plus it does not have the appropriate voltage and current rating for the application. This could result in possible shock and fire hazards.”

After I spoke with Technical Support at Progressive Industries, they admitted their statement was not true. In fact, all that is needed to connect the remote display and HW50C to the phone jacks is a four conductor phone line that has no cross-over, which is called a data line. To verify the cable has no cross-over, just hold both connector ends side by side and note the color sequence of the four conductors. Going left to right, the color sequence of both connectors must be in the same sequence. If the color sequence of one is opposite of the other, then it is a cross-over cable. The photo below shows the connection of the HW50C remote switch to the wet bay phone jack.



Checking the remote display at the dinette phone jack.


Remote display mounting at the instrument panel.


CC

DIPLOMAT DON'S GENTURI PROJECT

The information to the right of the photo is from a post that Diplomat Don did in August 2007...
"I installed a Genturi exhaust pipe today. I didn't want to lose the look of the chrome exhaust tip, so I installed the Genturi exhaust tip and then found a chrome tip that fit over the Genturi pipe end. I used the same hole that Genturi uses with the pin to pin the chrome tip on.

I had nothing to support the pipe and did not want to install Genturi's metal brackets on the outside of the coach (yuk). I have the fuse panel and electronics bay door where the pipe mounts, so I made a removable bracket that slips in the through the joint between the electronics bay door and fuel bay door (about a 3/8" gap).

I made the bracket from an 1/8" thick wooden gate hinge. I cut one end so that it had two dog ears on it and made a small bracket that the dog ears dropped into. I mounted the bracket at the top right edge of the bay when the door was open. The hinge clears the door as it closes. I added a 14" x 2" piece of steel to the hinge that supports the pipe.

Everything removes in a matter of minutes."



Diplomat Don is terrible at posting photos so MM posted them at the link found here... There is also a discussion at that thread which does not belong in the Quick Tips & Easy Mods area - so the thread will remain where it is.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: MonacoMama,

Improving Air Conditioning Performance

In the photo below I found both sides of the front air conditioner duct entrance restricted by a white insulated flap that had been blown to the vertical position blocking the air flow to the ducts.



The fix was just to tape the duct with duck tape as shown below.



Also, Dometic installation instructions for their remote sensor shows the sensor caps should be mounted with the groves in a vertical position to promote air flow past the sensor. Monaco mounted our sensor caps horizontal, but I have since mounted them vertical per Dometic’s instructions as shown below.



CC

Here's my first one. I'll try to get photos later this week. I use "front" and "rear" in ref to the coaches' front or back.
My Central Vac was mounted on the forward side wall out to the front of one of the small basement compartments. It seemed to take up a lot of space with the suction hose ran across the compartment and the assembly mounted near the door in the center of the "front" wall.

Here's what I did. And this costs nothing but time. About 1/2 hour. All I needed was a phillips and flat tip screwdrivers and a pair of wirecutting pliars.And my pocket knife. I did have to sit my beer down for a little while so be forewarned.

I took the canister off, It slides out of its bracket towards the door after pushing in on a latch. Rotated the assembly so the opening for changing the bag was up and moved the assembly and mounting bracket to the opposite rear corner of the compartment at the bottom.
Held the bracket and canister in place to mark the spot to mount the bracket and then used original screws to place it on wall farthest from the door. Cut the suction hose back with pliars and knife slightly and used the existing hardware and clamps to neatly run it to the upper inlet.
You gotta leave it (the canister) down on the floor or DW can't get into the top to change the bag. She'll want you to do it! Ran wires through ealier removed clamps remounted in a suitable spot and patted self on back. Leaves enough room now to get one or even two (stacked) of them "not stolen" milk crates in next to it for "stuff"

My bbq grill hose is stored there also so I'm looking at a solution to neatly hang it up on that front wall eventually.