I do not have a "boost" or "emergency start" switch. My Class A Itasca had that switch on the dashboard, but this Gulfstream does not. At any rate, it is charging the house battery when the engine is running and that is the main thing I wanted to correct. I never thought the chassis battery was supposed to charge off shore power and it should not normally need to. The boost or emergency start is a nice feature, but if one maintains their batteries properly, should never be needed. Also I have jumper cables long enough to reach between the two batteries if I ever get in a pinch.

At any rate, it sounds like it is perfectly safe to run it like this.

In case I decide to go that way, the Charge Wizzard (or like device) would go in the same line in place of the solenoit?

Thanks.

Here is a little info on the charge wizard
http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/charge_wizard.html. You would not have to remove any existing components to install the charge wizard.

Thanks. Nice product. Presumably you would leave the motorhome plugged in all the time with Charge Wizzard.

Looks like the Charge Wizzard simply plugs into the converter so it would not regulate charge from the chassis battery via the cables I now have.

The chassis will be charging the battery around 14.5 volts, which I gather is a bit too high.

House battery was 11.98 volts.
Plugged in 24 hours, charging at 13.8 volts.
Half hour after unplugged, read 12.78 volts
21 hours later, read 12.62 volts.
7 days later, read 11.75 volts.

So it dropped nearly a volt sitting a week unplugged. Does that suggest a weak battery?

Are you able to put an amp meter off the battery to determine if you have a current draw pulling the battery down? If not you would disconnect the negative post of battery (after charging) and redo your test to see if it holds better voltages for a longer period.

Should be no current draw as fridge and LP detector fuses are pulled. Still, I like your idea. Will try it. Thanks