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"Winnebago Coach Forum Member"

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Laugh

Learned a couple of new items. Thanks, John!



Rose


07 Meridian 39K CAT C7 350 KK460SS 03HCivHybrid
Cricket & Corky -- backseat drivers (aka Shelties) KC9JAA
 
Posts: 208 | Location: Central Indiana | Registered: June 23, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
"Winnebago Coach Forum Member"

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Thanks Johnny C !
I've got that pdf stowed away in my Winnebago electronic vault.

I was wondering how many folks carry around a piece of lumber that would be stout enough to reach across a pair of jacks and not break under load in soft soil (like here at the GNR field). I think it would have to be 4"x8"x6 ft. Am I misunderstanding something here?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Duner,


Bill (Dune'r) & Missy (my 5 lb toy poddle)
Last of the Chieftains
2004 39T, W22, UltraPower, Koni's, SMI Toad Brakes
'99 Suzuki Grand Vitara
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Posts: 341 | Location: Originally Camarillo, CA now Fulltiming | Registered: July 15, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
"Winnebago Coach Forum Member"

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Theory meets reality Jester


--John
2005 Horizon 40AD, 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
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Posts: 2416 | Location: Back at the ranch | Registered: January 25, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
"Winnebago Coach Forum Member"

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Thanks John

Jim


2007 Winnebago Vectra 40TD, 2003 S10 4x4 ZR2 with a 4 Wheel Truck Camper, 2006 Mini Cooper S
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Posts: 590 | Registered: August 17, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
"Winnebago Coach Forum Member"

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Thanks, John. I didn't make that one this year.

We have noticed shifting to one side when leveling in an extreme situation when we had multiple blocks under one front jack and wheel. It is startling to say the least!! When the coach came to rest you could look underneath and see the left ram completely vertical and the right ram at an good angle outward toward the bottom. If you look at your jack rams when leveled on fairly level ground, I believe you will see both at an angle with the feet a bit further apart than the top end.

I am trying to imagine how using one block across both jacks could work, and cannot see it. If the kind of side-to-side extreme situation we were in, one side needs much more blocking than the other side. I don't see one common block connecting the jacks with more blocks under one doing much good to connect them unless we are talking about the ground actually shifting. I'll have to think about that one some more!


Paul (KE5LXU) ...fulltimin'
'03 Winnebago Ultimate Advantage 40E
'00 Honda Odyssey toad
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Posts: 1365 | Location: ...on the road | Registered: August 11, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post

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Excellent document John. Thanks
 
Posts: 520 | Location: Brandon, SD | Registered: May 01, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
"Winnebago Coach Forum Member"

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Thanks John....great job and I learned some new things from your notes.
 
Posts: 230 | Location: Oh. | Registered: October 28, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
"Winnebago Coach Forum Member, iRV2 Contributor"

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John thanks from across the Pacific - your notes are very helpful for us down here.

John S


Lorene and John Storck
1995 Winnebago Vectra
1999 Suzuki Grand Vitara
 
Posts: 25 | Location: Auckland, New Zealand | Registered: December 10, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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"Workhorse Ambassador"

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quote:
Originally posted by John_Canfield:
This situation in particular is encountered here at GNR due to the rolling terrain. Mike (DriVer aka 'Sparky') had fun leveling - go up to the GNR/iRV2 topic at the top of this forum and read Mike's early posts. He had a time getting setup!
In my case the solution was basically 2 holes and a few blocks. Once prepped, the jacks were used as they should be to level the motorhome. If possible it would always be preferable to level the MH and still have the tires on the ground.

HWH came by and replaced my return springs by the way at a nominal cost. The tech told me that after 5 years or so the return springs do tend to stretch out and mine were heavily rusted as well.

The new springs have somewhat of a conical shape right before the attachment points as opposed to the previous square appearance.

The tech used a 3 foot long lever which had a hook mid-way on the tool to remove and install the springs. Before installing the springs he bent them to break the paint coating. I also found out that the springs need to match the lifting capacity of the jacks.

Thanks HWH! Good job. Thumbs Up


03 Winnebago 38G • Workhorse W22 • Adventurer
08 Saturn Vue XE I4 FWD • Blue Ox Aladdin • SMI's™ Stay-In-Play DUO
-- WCC W22 --- 08 Vue XE --- Roxie Doxie ------ SC -------- WCMC ---


•"Have You Forgotten?"• Welcome to iRV2 •
 
Posts: 17575 | Location: Conway, SC 29527 | Registered: January 29, 2000Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
"Winnebago Coach Forum Member"

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Thanks for the notes John -- answered a couple of questions that I had.

Also, Mike, your comment about old springs might be my problem also for slow jack return -- I will have to see what the cost might be for replacing my springs all the way around. You said that the tech used a three foot long lever to replace the springs -- where did he hook the end that he was not pulling/pushing on to secure the lever -- I like this idea and if I do replace my springs, I know I will be using something like this to get them off and on.


Dave and Karen
Fun Before We Retire
2002 Ultimate Advantage 36C / Cummins 350 HP ISC
2006 Freestyle with Tow Dolly
2007 Focus -- 4 Down Road Master Brake Master 9160
WIT WI39860 FMCA 381592 Good Sam Club 60754876
 
Posts: 391 | Location: Grayson, GA | Registered: November 24, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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