There is nothing you can buy or use that will compensate for worn-out receptacles in RV park/CG wiring systems. These worn-out receptacles are the root cause of burned and melted plug contacts. The receptacle contacts work by spring pressure against the plug prongs; when they lose that spring pressure from over-use the only remedy is replacement.
Regrettably, this effect on our RV electrical equipment is often not noticeable nor detectable until it is too late. A qualified electrician can measure the resistance in the post receptacle and report it to the CG management, but getting them to replace the worn-out parts is another matter.
I have replaced numerous 30A plugs on RV cords and extensions through the years due to this.
One indicator is to feel the plug while in-use. If it is hot to your touch it is the effect of high resistance(poor contact)due to a worn-out receptacle.

ray..it's true many campgrounds have poor hookups..before i bought my surge protector i had the little tester to check the plugs and several times found no ground connections or reversed hot lines..i was thinking where the plug is borderline the lube might help..better than nothing..my next thought is to get the 50 to 30 dogbone and use the 50 amp plug where available..they seem to be less damaged than the 30 amp..jim

Here is the result of my most scientific test on this product and it's performance.

Camped at the in-laws and had only 20amp service. Ran extension cords and dog-bones to get service. Noticed that 20 to 30 amp connection was warm to touch. The 30-50 was fine. Applied the OxGuard to the blades of all the connections, after cleaning them, and ran power items in the coach to draw 20 amps for about half an hour. Checked 'feel' of the connections and they were NOT warm to touch.

It would appear that this stuff works. Have also noticed that plugs are easier to go in and out.

Only draw back is the material is black and picks up dirt/sand if dragged on the ground.

I use dielectric grease on the shore cord of my boat. I will always check the receptacle with a tester then turn off the power, clean with a contact cleaner, apply a small dab of dielectric grease, plug in and then turn on the power. I use CRC products I have found that they hold up best.

I also use dielectric grease on my Jeep in every electrical connector and have had no failure due to water. And have had the Jeep in water over the mirrors.

Tugboat, your picture reminds me of a website a guy from Kentucky ran for a few years. He bought a new Jeep and took it mudding regularly. The Jeep began experiencing electrical problems so he took it to the selling dealer. The dealer opened the electrical/computer boxes, found them full of mud and water. The dealer then voided the warranty of the entire vehicle.
This guy waged a campaign against Jeep/Dodge for a long time, trying to get his warranty re-instated. The last I remember was that Jeep notified him that they planned to sue him. Then suddenly his website disappeared.

My Jeep has been out of warranty for years. But last December they put on a new catalytic converter because of a recall. There is not much left that is stock on her. For water crossing there is a CO2 system that keeps water out of the transmission, transfer Case, front & rear diferential's and distributer cap. plus outher mods.

quote:

Originally posted by Tugboat:
My Jeep has been out of warranty for years. But last December they put on a new catalytic converter because of a recall. There is not much left that is stock on her. For water crossing there is a CO2 system that keeps water out of the transmission, transfer Case, front & rear diferential's and distributer cap. plus outher mods.

UPDATE: Tugboat, I forgot to mention that dielectric grease is a non-conductor of electricity. Just run an internet search for "dielectric". My 2nd retirement was from the 2nd largest electrical transmission equipment manufacturer in the world. I designated using a graphite grease for applications requiring low resistance conductivity and lubrication at voltages in transmission lines, specifically transformer cutouts and fuses.

Yes you are right. That is why I use a contact cleaner first. Then the Dielectric grease keeps moisture out and helps the plug slid in and out easier. In the Jeep it is packed with dielectric grease and sealed with heat shrink tubing to make it water proof. It is also used on the ignition wires but the distributer is keep under Co2 pressure to keep water out.

I am in the HVAC trade and we use a product called Nolox available at any electrical supply house and I have found it at Lowes too. I use it on voltages from 24v to 460V and it is to prevent corrosion caused by disimular metals.(dielectric)

quote:

Originally posted by Roadhazard:
I am in the HVAC trade and we use a product called Nolox available at any electrical supply house and I have found it at Lowes too. I use it on voltages from 24v to 460V and it is to prevent corrosion caused by disimular metals.(dielectric)

What you are describing is galvanic corrosion, it is not dielectric.
As I stated previously, using a dielectric grease is counter-productive. Even ordinary grease creates higher resistance, that's why I recommended a graphite-bearing grease, to better conduct current. Granted, that was at 7,200 and higher substation voltages.