I saw the WalMart store behind and was beginning to wonder if it was one of those places where they don't allow WalMart parking. If you try it, this is what happens to you.

quote:

Originally posted by Cruzer:
I saw the WalMart store behind and was beginning to wonder if it was one of those places where they don't allow WalMart parking. If you try it, this is what happens to you.

Actually it looked like my MH after loading our purchases in the Storemore...

Good one Mark!!

John:

Here is what you see behind the removable access panel on the box that holds the FW tank...not sure it is the same on your rig. You can see the two See Level sensors that I have stuck on the tank:

quote:

Originally posted by smlranger:
John:

Here is what you see behind the removable access panel on the box that holds the FW tank...not sure it is the same on your rig. You can see the two See Level sensors that I have stuck on the tank:

That's what the view looks like behind the water access panel in our rig too ..... except a little bigger....
Seriously though, I'm glad Gary took that picture as I forgot when I put the SeeLevel in. The sensor on the right is the one that I removed a bit of the insulation to put in as it looks like he did. The upper sensor is the one on the left behind the cable operated drain valve.



Although it looks like the bottom of the upper senser extends below the top of the lower sensor, it is that way only because of the the camera perspective. The lower sensor is closer to the camera and the picture is taken at an angle. The upper sensor should be mounted 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch above the bottom sensor.

On our rigs additional access can be gained from the top of the tank going down to it, but on a raised rail chassis, it may be different.

Joe:

Thanks for enlarging that. I couldn't figure out why it posted so small...it is larger on the photo page.

I used the horizontal seam in the tank as a guide to locate the sensors. However, when I got topside, I kept getting ERR on my FW level display. I did the programming for 2 sensors, checked the wiring and still got ERR. Then, duh...I realized I did not clip the upper sensor to indicate it is the top sensor. I will attempt to cut that little piece off the upper sensor with a small blade tonite.

My tank is identical to yours. I made a vertical cut 3 1/2" to the right with a portable jigsaw and bent the piece of metal up to gain access to a smooth part of the tank. After the senders were installed I bent the metal back down and secures with the removable panel. Then used tape to cover the saw cuts. Worked great. Unfortunately I didn't take pictures.

Well, I am also a bad boy who didnt take pictures!! I wanted to share some things I learned on my 35U installation.
Before I get started, you should get a Technical service bulletin with you unit telling you about some things to be aware of. Such as mounting to close to a metal panel or bracket and how you should use masking tape to temporarily place the sensor until you make sure that is the right location. If you dont get a tech bulleting, print one from their site. You want to read that whole bulletin and understand it!!!!
The readings that I will be giving are with the coach about as perfectly level as you could get it.
First of all, I installed the inside monitor in the wall just below the One Place management panel. I did not cover up the old monitoring unit but did disconnect it in the back and used the existing wiring. I also installed an outside monitor in the water/sewer bay by cutting out a hole in the metal panel right above the outside shower on/off valves.
The fresh tank on my rig has the drain valve on the side of the tank. I found that the water pump will stop pumping when the water level is just below the top part of that drain valve. Therefore I did not want the sensor to be mounted below that drain valve. Otherwise, the sensor would think there was water there when the pump would start sucking air. So I mounted it with the top about 1/4" from the top and the bottom was about level with the top part of the drain valve tubing. The bottom of the sensor sort of lines up with where the old 1/3 indicator was. So that shows how accurate that old unit was!! I actually have about 7 gallons of usuable water in the tank after the monitor says I have zero. So that is a nice cushion. It will read 100% when you could probably add about 4-7 more gallons before it would start out the over flow.I mounted the sensor about 2-3"'s from the drain valve so that I would be away from the tank mounting bracket and the drain valve as much as possible per the tech bulletin.
I mounted the black tank sensor to the left of the existing sensors inside the sewer/water bay behind that metal panel that holds the shower and fresh fill valve. This one had to be mounted closer to 1/8 from the top rather than their recommended 1/4-3/4" inorder to get the longest sensor possible and keep it from wrapping around the bottom of the tank where it curves under. It first reads 10% when you have about 4 gallons in it and reads 80 percent when you have 31 gallons in there. I did not go up to 100% but presume it should be about the 37 gallon mark on a 40 gallon tank.
The grey tank was another matter. I originally mounted it where the existing sensors are on the passenger side sort of above and in front of the rear wheels. That tank is a slopped tank. it is 6" high on that side and close to 7 1/2-8" on the drivers side. By mounting it on the shallow side, it did not read water until it was probably 14 gallons full. This is on a 54 gallon tank. Then for some reason, after it reached 50% full, it shortly showed full when I still had about 15-16 gallons of usuable space left. We think part of this problem was a faulty sensor which they replaced free. This is one section of that tech bulletin that is incorrect. It states that you should put the sensor on the shallow side of a slopped tank if possible. I talked to Corrie at Garnet and he said it should be the deep end if possible without getting near any metal strapping etc.
So I decided I wanted to be able to see the level sooner than having 14 gallons already in it. I moved the living slide out and back in the right hand corner of the chassis frame, there are two removable panels each having about 12 screws. One sits along the frame rail and the other adjoing one is 90 degrees to it in front of the rear wheels. I removed the one that runs along the frame rail entirely. The one in front of the wheel well was hard to remove on the reight side of that panel due to caulking etc. So I removed all the screws and pulled the left side of it back out of the way. the panel is a thin metal and will bend back. I held it back with some string so that I wouldnt bend it back too far. The tank at that location has a section about 6" long that forms an "L" in the tank. On the other side of that "L" is where the drain pipe comes out. I placed the sensor on the "L" facing me. You have to be VERY carefull that where you mount it is at least 2-3" from any metal brackets INCLUDING that removable panel. Othersie you will get a false reading. So tape it one and check you readings, then close up that panel temporarily to make sure the readings, including empty readings, is correct. Then stick the sensor on.
The readins showed 25% with 13 gallons of water on a 54 gallon tank and 100% at 48 gallons.
So I am happy with all that.
I hope you can follow all this!!
Mike

This message has been edited. Last edited by: ISLAPP,

I installed the SeeLevel system last winter. So far I like it very much

The only problem with installing this system is get access to the end of the holding tanks. My grey and black tanks were easy but the fresh water tank was something else. I wished that I didn't weigh so much.

George

Hi, I just found this by going thru Garnet. My DH wants to put in a monitor panel in coach and one in the basment area also.

Joe, could you please explain how you done the wiring for this.

Thank you,
Gail

Hi Gail,

Welcome to iRV2 . I'm glad you found this site and find useful topics on it.

I'm not sure what rig you have, if you'd like you can add that information to your signature line so everyone knows, but on most rigs, there is already wiring in place that can be used for the Seelevel installation.

Depending on whether you are replacing your existing level display with the Seelevel or adding the Seelevel in addition to the old one will dictate your wiring scheme. In my case, I wanted to leave the existing panel in place as it was part of my Winnebago panel and I decided it it would be there, it may as well still work.

Since I could not reuse the existing wiring, I had to run new wires from the location inside the motorhome to the tank sensor locations. On our Winnebago Journey, this was very simple as I only had to drop a wire straight down from my display panel location to the tanks which were below them.

The sensors only have two wires which are blue and black. All you need to do is connect all the blue wires together and then connect them to the blue wires of your display panels, then connect the black wires together and connect them to ground along with the black wire of the display panels.

If you don't have an easy way to run the wires through the motorhome though, you can reuse the existing wiring from your tank sensors. Since the sensors are connected in parallel and they only require 2 wires, you can simply disconnect the signal wires from your old panel and also from the old tank sensor probes. Use those 2 wires which are already in place for the new SeeLevel display panels.

If you have any other questions, please feel free to post them. The double display (inside and outside) SeeLevel unit is one of the upgrades I get to use every day and love it.